Tuesday, 17 August 2010
The four New Zealanders who were killed in the NZ sector of Antarctica
Four New Zealanders have died in Antarctica as a result of accidents while working for the New Zealand Antarctic Research Programmes. I took the photo above a few days after my good friend Jeremy Sykes was killed in 1969, and I have always looked upon this photo as Jeremy's memorial. I call it 'Antarctic Ice.
On the upper Robert Scott Glacier with Jeremy Sykes on the far right under the wing, 17 November 1969. Two days later Jeremy died. Photo: Bob McKerrow
Those 13 months I spent in Antarctica so many years ago, seem but a distant memory. But from time to time I remember Jeremy Sykes and Garth Varcoe, people I could count as friends. I also think of those other two New Zealanders who died in Antarctica, Tom Couzens and Terry Newport, both men with interesting lives that were cut short. The deaths of these four people have been acknowledged to some extent, but Jeremy Sykes and Tom Couzens have received scant coverage. This article sets about to give four brave men, appropriate recognition.
Plaque to New Zealanders killed in Antarctica: Lieutenant Tom Couzens (19/11/59); Jeremy Sykes (19/11/69); Terry Newport and Garth Varcoe (13/10/92). It lies beneath the flagpole at Scott Base.
Tom Couzens
Bernie Gunn describes the day Tom Couzens arrived in Antarctica.
" Robb and I went out to the airstrip to pick up our replacement Cat‑driver, Lt. Tom Couzens, straight out of a Centurian tank in the Korean war. It was a whiteout and there was no sign of the C140 Hercules. I went into the Ops hut.
"Where the hell is the plane, has she turned back?"
"Naw, she's on the ground, taxiin' in by radar!"
Then I could hear the motors and as I stared, out of the murk, four propellers appeared, like the Cheshire cat's grin.
Presumably behind them was the rest of the 'plane! ."We went out to meet the plane there were not many passengers and we soon picked a tall, erect young man who could only be an Army Officer."
"Couzens? I'm Bernie Gunn."
"Thought so, bloody marvellous to be here, I've got all my kit, can we go?"
By the time we climbed into the Cat both Robb and I knew we had the kind of man we both wanted. We roared off into the drift with visibility a few yards, cracking jokes. The Hut Point road was flagged and marked with signs like, "Pancho Gonzales, he like hot Tamales!" but we soon left it and swung in a wide curve south and east round Cape Armitage. Only milk could be seen ahead but I could see Robb occasionally polishing the left window and could see a dark patch away on our left, the rocks of Cape Armitage.
"You know, I don't want to seem a complete fool, but how the devil do you chaps know where you're going?" asked Tom.
"Aw, y' know how it is," said Robb, polishing the left door window again. "When y' been here awhile like Bernie 'n' me y' get a sort of built‑in direction finder!"
One of the Sno-Cats from the 1957 Trans Antarctic Expedition` at Scott Base in 1969. Tom Couzen's used his tank driving skills to get the best out of these machines. This was the type of Sno Cat that Tom was killed in. Photo: Bob McKerrow
Later: In the morning the Cats refuelled, Tom gunned the big V8 engine of County of Kent and she spun round, snow flying and a track fouled a tow‑bar.
"God Almighty!" said Robb to me. "He got carried away, he thinks it's a Centurion! Tom!, Tom, y' bloody fool, that isn't a tank you got there!"
"Oh, God!" said Couzens winding down a window, "Sorry, I got carried away! I thought I was back in the old Cent!"
Couzens did have some absorbing tales. He swore the Cent was by far the best tank in Korea and once for a bet, shot his way through the Chinese lines, round a mountain and back home via the American lines. The latter were not impressed as he roared over all their communication cables and severed them!
The 1959 season got under way with an 80 day expedition setting out with two TAE Snowcats and three nine-dog teams, each pulling 450kg loads and driven by Antarctic veteran Bernie Gunn. Tom Couzens was driving a Snowcat. On 19 Novembver 1959, the party had crossed the Ross Ice Shelf and was near Cape Selborne when the rear vehicle went into a 30 m-deep crevasse. The driver, Lt. Tom Couzens was killed and Gunn and Lowery were seriously injured and badly frostbitten.
Bernie Gunn describes that tragic time:
I almost asked Couzens to let me drive, but reflected that the machine was his responsibility and did not want to put him in the awkward position of having to obey an order that he might do only reluctantly. We laughed and joked in a carefree way and then suddenly appeared to be precipitated into another dimension. We were falling, upside down, iron clanging off walls of ice. I had the slightest impression of seeing the right front drive pontoon shoot up in the air, of a roll to the right and a crunch of snow against the sno-cat body and a long fall. I had time to think, “Must be a crevasse !“ and then, “If we survive this one, we will be lucky !“ and then came a monumental crash.
It was about 10 oclock in the morning. I came to, pinned upside down in a cramped fashion in a tiny space between the seats and instrument panel. What had been the Cat roof was flattened to within a foot of so of the seats. My knees were in my face but I was able to wriggle into a more comfortable position.
“Now, think sensibly” I thought. “The others will come, sooner or later, don’t get frostbite, try to get out.” My balaclava had come off and my ears were already painful. I could not get a hand up but was able to wriggle it back over my ears, so I still have them. Lucky, that. I kicked at the crumpled door of the Cat, it seemed totally unyielding and in fact was hard against an ice wall and the jolt sent waves of pain up my mashed-up spine.
There was a groan and Lowery came to. He was pinned in more tightly than me but Couzens did not move and it later appeared he was killed instantly by the steering wheel. Above my head on the drivers side, light filtered in and ice gleamed a few feet away.
After they were rescued, Gunn wanted to bury Tom Couzens. On his website he explains that moment.
"Get Tom out and bury him here under a snow mound, got it? He’ll be in good company round here,” I said.
“Alright!” he said briefly, and I gather he did, but some bureaucrat over-ruled my order and had Tom’s body flown home in a rubber bag, an utterly gruesome thing to do.
So that was the first New Zealander killed in Antarctica, a talented young life cut short. The next to be killed was Jeremy Sykes, almost ten years later.
Jeremy Sykes
Jeremy Sykes was the Director/leader of a NZ Film Unit team comprising. Sam Grau cameraman, Kel Fowler Cameraman. and Graham Pomfret-Brown (sound recorder) that went to Antarctica for the start of the 1969-70 season.The photo above is one kindly provided by NZ Antarctica
I trained with them on a snow-craft course on Mt. Ruapehu in August 1969 and really got to like them during our week long training at the Waioru Army Camp. In fact I recall walking home with Jeremy, Sam, Kel and Graham from the officer's mess when we spied a tank. "We'll buy the bloodything and take it South" said Graham. Within seconds Graham had pulled a cheque book from his pocket and wrote the words One million dollars, signed it, and rammed it down the tank barrel. It was the start of a relationship I continued 2 months later when we flew to Antarctica on a Super Constellation, the first flight to Antarctica that season. As I was a mountaineer, I was asked to be a guide for the film crew as they filmed in potentially dangerous places such as in ice caves, crevasses and when they wanted to film in blizzard conditions.
On 17 November I accompanied Jeremy, who was Director of the NZ Film Unit team on a trip to drop off a NZARP field party at the Robert Scott glacier, 100 miles from the South Pole. I spoke a lot to Jeremy during and after that trip and got to know this highly intelligent, creative and sensitive man. He spoke of his wife, and young boy in Wellington with great love, and I came to admire a man, not your usual rough and tough Kiwi, but an artist with such a positive outlook on life..
We came back to Scott Base and I guided them during breaks in my work during the next two days. I was meant to accompany them on a trip to the upper Wright Dry Valley on 19 November, but as I was science technician in charge of seismology, geomagnetics and earth currents, I was unable to take the day off. I remember that day well. The helicopter took off about 8.30 am. Later that day I heard that Jeremy was dead when the engine failed in the helicopter.. I was in the laboratory at Scott Base when the news came through and I was stunned. Sam Grau received bad burns to his hands and. Tom Berg from the US Navy was also killed. Thank God that Jim Brandau, the pilot, was able to auto rotate the chopper down probably preventing everyone from being killed. The plane crashed in the Lower Wright valley. A US Navy website provides this information on the crash:
Crashed 19nov69 when the engine failed, LCDR Brandau auto rotated the US Navy H-34( sikorsky s-58 H-34) down and it struck the side of a slope, slid down and caught fire. Two men were killed, Thomas E. Berg (USA) and Jeremy Sykes (NZ)
Bruce Willis, the winter leader at Scott Base, held a moving memorial service at Scott Base.
Terry Newport
Twenty three after the second NZ death in Antarctica, on 13 October 1992, New Zealanders Garth Varcoe and Terry Newport were killed in a helicopter crash 40 km from Scott Base. They were returning to McMurdo Station in a US Navy helicopter after rebuilding the hut at a summer research station, Cape Bird. The weather deteriorated during their journey and the helicopter struck an icy slope above a 10 m ice cliff. Varcoe, Newport and Ben Micou, a US Navy helicopter mechanic, were thrown from the helicopter and killed as it slid towards the rocks below. The pilot and co-pilot, also of the US Navy, survived but lay waiting for help, rescue efforts hampered by poor visibility.
Terry (Terrance) Francis Newport was born in Nelson on 21 Sept. 1961
He rew up in Nelson and attended Waimea College in Richmond. He then attended Nelson Polytechnic where he gained is Trade Certificate in Carpentry (75%) and his Advanced Trade Certificate in Carpentry (70%). Terry also did MOW courses in welding and gas welding. He worked in the building industry in Nelson for 11 years and in this time married Pauline; a marriage he valued very much. They moved to Queensland where he worked for a year and this was followed by a year travelling the world. They returned to Christchurch in 1991 where he found employment in the building industry and at the same time and looking to the future, he commenced studies with the Open Polytechnic for a New Zealand Certificate in Engineering.
Two photos above of Terry Newport summer chippie courtesy Pauline Newport and David Harrowfield
An outdoor man he enjoyed sea fishing; golf; skiing; off-road motor cycle riding and camping (with some tramping) in the weekends.
Terry had high work standards, was conscientious and paid attention to detail in a professional manner. He related to people at all levels, and had a quiet quirky sense of humour.
Former Scott Base Manager Dave Geddes (20.10.1992) said Terry who departed for the ice on WINFLY (his first trip south) 24 August 1982, "quickly fitted into life at Scott Base and was sensitive and considerate of his fellows feelings. If ever there was a job to be done, Terry was always the first to volunteer. He was a big man with a big heart. But he was also a gentle and compassionate man who always put others before himself."
Newport, a summer carpenter, had only worked in Antarctica since August that year - fulfilling what was reportedly a longstanding ambition.
Memorial service for the Mt. Erebus disaster victims at Scott Base on 2 December 1979. Left to right: US Navy Chaplain, Garth Varcoe, Bob Dunnachie (obscured), Father Creagh, Mike Prebble, unknown, Bob Thomson (superintendent of the Antarctic Division of the Department of Scientific and Industrial Research), Captain Westbrook, unknown. Photo: Nigel Roberts.
Garth Varcoe (right) at Scott Base yarning to Art Brown in February 1990. Photo: David Harrowfield
Garth Varcoe
As mentioned earlier Darth Varcoe was killed in the same helicopter crash as Terry Newport.Garth,
Garth, his brother Ian and sister Rae, were my neighbours in Dunedin. Garth taught me how to make a crystal set when I was at Life Boys at the Mornington Presbyterian Church, and I did my first major tramping trip with his brother Ian, an Air New Zealand Pilot. Garth was a very active member of the Otago Tramping and Mountaineering Club and I used to meet him in the hills regularly.
In 1989, Garth delivered to me in Levin, a scale model of a Nansen sledge
I had made at Vanda Station during the winter of 1970. When the station was dismantled, Garth thought of me and brought the sledge back to New Zealand.Garth cared about people and was a man who believed in fair play.
When Garth Varcoe was killed, it was his 37th visit. His first was in 1978 as the buildings and services officer of the Antarctic Division of the Department of Scientific and Industrial Research. In 1990 Varcoe was awarded the Polar Medal in recognition of his contribution to the New Zealand Antarctic Research Programme.
The Wright Valley taken from near the summit of Mt. Newall. The 1969 helicopter crash which killed Jeremy Sykes, is in the lower Wright valley.
Garth and his wife Kath, did a lot of work for tramping and mountain communications. In 1989 Garth Varcoe from the DSIR Antarctic Division joined the Canterbury mountain radio service as a base operator and committee member. Garth proved to be a stalwart and made a marvelous contribution to the CMRS until his untimely death, . Kath however, continued on as an operator and member of the committee until 1998.
Garth is remembered by a key feature on Ross Island as recorded by the New Zealand Geographic Board:
Varcoe Headland is a low [[headland]], 34 m, that marks the north entrance point to [[Horseshoe Bay]] in west [[Ross Island]]. Named by [[New Zealand Geographic Board]] (NZGB) after [[Technical Services Officer Garth Edwin Varcoe]], who worked in the NZ [[Antarctic Programme]] over a period of 15 years until his accidental death in a helicopter crash near this headland in October 1992. His expertise was in the mechanical and electrical areas and he played a leading role in the reconstruction of [[Scott Base]].
Garth Varcoe, building and services officer NZARP at the Midwinter rowing regatta barby at Kerr's Reach 1986. Photo: Gavid Harrowfield.
Their names have also been given to geographical features in Antarctica: Varcoe Headland, Newport Bay, Couzens Bay and Couzens Saddle, Sykes Glacier and their photos and name are placed in the foyer of Scott Base.
Dear 群育航學,
ReplyDeleteThanks for passing by and commenting.
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Thanks for that effort Bob.
ReplyDeleteMost enjoyable reading and it brought back memories.
I worked with Jim Lowery a few times at Vanda in later years - a character who would often take off his legs and put them on the table when having a beer with us.
I also ran into Sam Grau in Wellington about 20 years ago and his burns were looking good.
Garth Varcoe always wanted to walk around the Wellington wharves with a pie in one hand and a coke in the other, whenever he came to Wellington, and talk about old times.
I wish I was as good as he was at keeping in touch with old mates.
All the best mate. What great work you have done over the years
Gary Lewis.
Dear Gary
ReplyDeleteIt is always a joy to hear from my old wintering over mate at Vanda Station. It is always good to reflect, but sad when you think of the good blokes who died down there. I suppose they don't have mortgages to pay, people to nag them, and they rest in a place they loved.
Thanks mate. That was a special winter, eh!
Bob
Hi Bob
ReplyDeleteIndeed you are a man of our time and of all seasons. You have placed a human face on Antarctica. I'm sad at reading about those kiwis who met untimely death on Ross Island while they were carrying out both important prepartory and complementary work to further the goals of NZARP. They deserve more than a footnote. In my book they rank among the heroes of Antarctica.
Thank you very much for giving me a new perspective on Scott Base and my musing mind is again at work for the heroes of Scott Base, Antarctica.
Take care and have a great weekend.
Dear Paterika
ReplyDeleteLike a poet writing about often seen events, I get great joy in promoting unsung heroes. Google the name Jeremy Sykes who died while directing one of the best documentaries on Antarctica, and you will hardly find a metion. Similarly with Terry Newport. I am pleased I have opened your eyes a little more to those who gave their lives in the service of discovery.
You have a relaxing weewkend too. Bob
Very interesting post,Bob!Thank you for sharing.
ReplyDeleteHi Steffi
ReplyDeleteGood to hear from you again. Are you still in India? Tks for your feedback. Bob
Bob
ReplyDeleteA little bit off topic but I found that there is a New Zealand website called "NZ on screen" which has a lot of old TV clips and things. There is some historical Antartic stuff, plus some classic old tramping/climbing films.
I especially liked a 1964 one with Peter McCormack taking a party over Graham Saddle to the old Malte Brun Hut where, by chance, he runs into Sir Ed, Harry Ayres and Murray Ellis. Best part was when they arrived at the Hermitage (supposedly after walking all the way from Malte Brun) they stop and take their boots off at the door. Very 1960s.
Also had to laugh watching "A stupid way to die" which was a 1971 hypothermia film made by the Mountain Safety Council and starring Jill Tremain.
NZ has come a long way since then.
Cheers.
Gollum
Dear Gollum
ReplyDeleteI came across that movie of Peter and Elizabeth McCormack and I think it was Ralph Warburton too and their Graham Saddle crossing. A classic.
I will visit that site and have a look at the Antarctic movies. I am about to get a few thousand NZ mountrain slides scanned si hopefully Ican show photos of Hardie's Gut, Mt. Brewster and some of my favourite spots in the alps.
Cheers mate.
Bob
I can't wait to see those. I could never figure out where Hardies Gut was.
ReplyDeleteThere are some amazing NZ mountain photos out there on the web. The site at www.southernalpsphotography.com is simply stunning and has my mouth watering.
Cheers
Gollum
Dear Gollum
ReplyDeleteI checked that site and the photos are magnificent.
Yes, I am looking forward to getting all my slides converted. In the meantime, I focus on hopefully an All Black win tonight.
Cheers, Bob
Bob: I took the photograph of the service blessing the Erebus DC-10 crash cross, and I am pretty sure that the two unidentified people in the picture are the US ambassador (Anne Martindell - sp.?) and, on the right-hand end of the group of people in the photo, the McMurdo Station head of the National Science Foundation. Keep up the good work. Very best wishes, Nigel Roberts (Sunday, 22 August 2010).
ReplyDeleteDear Nigel
ReplyDeleteThanks for letting me know you took that photo. I will make sure you get credit.
A pleasure to have contact with you. Bob
>Garth cared about people
ReplyDeleteYou're so right about this Bob!
Thanks for putting together this fitting post. I came back to it today as I knew I would, to reflect.
As a comparatively late newcomer to the deep south in about 1990 I'd heard all about Garth. He'd probably heard about me too from mutual friends, as I felt sort of 'watched' initially.
So at the Tekapo fire training we were instructed by him to stand briefly upright in a severely smoke filled and hot training house and crack a joke, so I mentioned that ducks have webbed feet to trample out forest fires. He looked a bit stunned at my oblique reference to one of his famous follies.
After that rather odd thing I did [what, did those words come from me - surely not!!] he became my mentor in the ways of the continent as I prepared gear for an amazing seismic survey beginning under Mt Markham and heading out onto the Ross Ice Shelf.
When he'd see me close to making a mistake around Scott Base there'd be a kindly word of advice and a grin. And he often thought to include me in very interesting and educational meetings at McMurdo [half my bosses were US based scientists]. Then when I had spare time before my team arrived, he had me out on all sorts of interesting jobs such as when a D9 went down a slot en-route to our experiment [the same area in the lee of White Island that gave probs. for Scott, and the 1958 trip to the Sth. Pole]
So the friendship got under way very solidly and was in it's early days - that time when we all think we've all the time in the world!
I wish I'd spent more time with him and had a few more beers instead of being out every evening skiing and biking around Castle Hill etc., but I'm thankful none-the-less. He was an awesome human being - a privilege to know and work with.
Thanks again for remembering him!
Cheers
Donald
Dear Donald
ReplyDeleteThanks for adding a bit more information on the history of Garth Varcoe, and outstanding man who found his calling in Antarctica. I knew him from the early 50s up until his death. I remember his patience in teaching me and other boys to make crystal sets and one valve radios.
I didn't reaise you went south ? An amazing experience for us all.
Bob,
ReplyDeleteI am working on a gazetteer of a portion of the Ross Dependency. Would like to communicate directly with you regarding a few lines of biographical info regarding Garth V.
Kindest regards,
Larry Conrad
ljconrad@ix.netcom.com
Dear Larry, I am happy to assist in any way I can. Nob
ReplyDeleteThanks for writing this Bob. I came to know Garth Varcoe in 88/89 when I did survival training before spending time at Cape Bird with some N.Z. biologists.
ReplyDeleteWhat a guy! I'll never forget him loading all us scientists into a burning house so we could experience smoke inhalation first hand, and how to get close to the floor to get fresh air. Of course he'd run a bunch of sheep through the place earlier that morning. He loved yelling "breath that sweet sweet air down there boys!"
He was a solid bloke.
Dear Deev
ReplyDeleteGarth was a colourful character, fully committed to every aspect of Antarctica. And when it came to training he was tops. Thanks for sharing.
I had a ginger beer tonight, and it reminded me of Garth. I was one of the JSART members on the Gentle 17 rescue and body recovery.
ReplyDeleteGarth embodied all that was great about NZARP. As an American, I was priveleged to go through Tekapo training, and I'll never forget Garth with his fire hat spurring me on to crawl through the burning building "simulator". I googled his name , and am glad to see that there is a record here on the web. He was a true OAE.
Brooks Montgomery
brooksmontgomery@msn.com
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