A 21 year old in Antarctica for 13 months. 1969-70

I flew from New Zealand to Scott Base Antarctica on 17th of October 1969 on a Super Constellation. This was the first flight after the long winter. I loved the solitude and walking through the pressurized sea ice. ( All photographs by Bob McKerrow)

I was fascinated by the seals, penguins and later in the season, the Killer whales.

With the arrival of field parties, I traveled by C 130 to interesting places such as the Robert Scott Glacier, about 100 miles from the South Pole.

I spent a lot of time with Chris Knot our dog handler, and used to drive the second team. here are my two lead dogs, Mike and Kulak.

Chris would drive one team, and I the other, and we often did big trips to places like Cape Royds, 30 km away.

Sir Ernest Shackelton's hut at Cape Royds, base for his 1909 South Pole Expedition. 

                                                            Penguins at Cape Royds

Here I saw my first penguin, first seal and first ice-breaker. At just 21 years of age I found this so exciting.

After 3 months at Scott Base, I moved to Vanda station, a small 4 -man scientific base in the Wright Dry Valley. This was an enchanting place with amazing rock formations and spiky peaks.

Looking towards the Upper Wright Glacier and ice which flows from the polar plateau.

Mount Boreas in the Upper Wright Valley. Gary Lewis with his trusty Mountain Mule pack.

Our laboratory at Vanda Station where our electricity came from wind generation.

We had this strange outdoor toilet with Tony Bromley giving a demonstration. We used it all winter long, even when temperatures dropped to -45 degrees Centigrade.

Mid winter's day in Antarctica - 42 years ago.

After four months at Scott Base, I arrived at Lake Vanda in January 1970 where I spent 10 months as a science technician. We celebrated mid-winter on 21 June 1970, some 42 years ago today .

laboratory at Vanda station. For electricity we used a wind generator to charge our 24 volt Nicad batteries. When there was no wind, we would use a small Petter diesel generator. Photo: Bob McKerrow

For hygiene purposes, our toilet at Vanda Station was outside. Here is Tony Bromley on the thunder-box. When it got below - 40 degrees Celcius. it was dangerous as ones backside would stick to the painted seat and rip skin off. To solve this problem we made polystyrene seat covers to protect our bums. Photo: Bob McKerrow

On reflection, the 13 months I spent in Antarctica were among the best of my life.

I remember vividly the last helicopter leaving us in early February and we knew it would be at least nine months before we saw anyone else.

At the end of the long winter's night where it was totally dark for four months, I looked in the mirror and saw myself for the first time in five months. I wrote in my diary " A man without a woman about him is a man without vanity."

A few weeks later while reflecting on the winter, I wrote " I turned 22 in March, it is now September. During the past five months I have got to know and understand my worst enemy, myself."

The Wright Valley, View north through Bull Pass into Victoria Valley. The small stream flowing west (into Lake Vanda) is the Onyx.

The view of the Wright Valley taken from the survey station on the summit of Mt Newall (which now has a micro-wave tower on it).

We did long trips on foot in the late Autumn, throughout the winter and early Spring. Bob McKerrow left and Gary Lewis right, with frozen beards and faces. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Bath time at Vanda Station. Gary Lewis having a bath after six months Photo; Bob McKerrow

The old hand painted sign outside Vanda Station

There was also the poem I wrote just before the long winter's night ended.

I journeyed south to an icy cage

The sun never shone, there was no day

When I looked into the jaws of night

Far off I saw the threads of life

Twisting themselves into an eternal web

That stretched unbroken from dawn to death

It was the Aurora that gladdened the eye

A frenetic serpent that snaked the sky

Pouring mellowed colours that sparkled rime

On icy pendants soon to sublime.

Yes high above towers all form

Soon will come the first blush of dawn

My life has changed my dash is done

O welcome the King, O welcome the sun

The Aurora Australialis

Mid winter's Day, Vanda Station, Antarctica, 40 years on

After four months at Scott Base, I arrived at Lake Vanda in January 1970 where I spent 10 months as a science technician. We celebrated mid-winter on 21 June 1970, some 40 years ago today .

Our laboratory at Vanda station. For electricity we used a wind generator to charge our 12 volt Nicad batteries. When there was no wind, we would use a small Petter diesel generator. Photo: Bob McKerrow

For hygiene purposes, our toilet at Vanda Station was outside. Here is Tony Bromley on the thunder-box. When it got below - 40 degrees Celcius. it was dangerous as ones backside would stick to the painted seat and rip skin off. To solve this problem we made polystyrene seat covers to protect our bums. Photo: Bob McKerrow

On reflection, the 13 months I spent in Antarctica were among the best of my life.

I remember vividly the last helicopter leaving us in early February and we knew it woulld be at least nine months before we saw anyone else.

At the end of the long winter's night where it was totally dark for four months, I looked in the mirror and saw myself for the first time in five months. I wrote in my diary " A man without a woman about him is a man without vanity."

A few weeks later while reflecting on the winter, I wrote " I turned 22 in March, it is now September. During the past five months I have got to know and understand my worst enemy, myself."


The Wright Valley, View north through Bull Pass into Victoria Valley. The small stream flowing west (into Lake Vanda) is the Onyx.
On reflection, the 13 months I spent in Antarctica were among the best of my life.


The view of the Wright Valley taken from the survey station on the summit of Mt Newall (which now has a micro-wave tower on it).


We did long trips on foot in the late Autumn, throughout the winter and early Spring. Bob McKerrow left and Gary Lewis right, with frozen beards and faces. Photo: Bob McKerrow




Bath time at Vanda Station. Gary Lewis having a bath after six months Photo; Bob McKerrow


The old hand painted sign outside Vanda Station

There was also the poem I wrote just before the long winter's night ended.

I journeyed south to an icy cage
The sun never shone, there was no day
When I looked into the jaws of night
Far off I saw the threads of life
Twisting themselves into an eternal web
That stretched unbroken from dawn to death
It was the Aurora that gladdened the eye
A frenetic serpent that snaked the sky
Pouring mellowed colours that sparkled rime
On icy pendants soon to sublime.
Yes high above towers all form
Soon will come the first blush of dawn
My life has changed my dash is done
O welcome the King, O welcome the sun


The Aurora Australialis

So today I will raise a glass of red to my old comrades who I wintered over with at Vanda Station, in that remore dry valley in Antarctica: Gary Lewis, Tony Bromley and Harold Lowe.