Tuesday 22 July 2008

Winter landscapes and travels in New Zealand


Looking towards Porter's Pass skifield

It was beginning to snow when I left Hamner Springs yesterday and today the Southern Alps are getting another blanket of snow. I am happy to be writing this from the warmth of my house in Christchurch, with a roaring log fire to keep me company.

It was a joy to reconnect with the Southern Alps of New Zealand again after almost two years away. That spiny backbone that stretches down almost the full length of New Zealand, dividing West and East in a most distinctive manner, separating the wetter west coast from the drier east coast. There are only three motorable roads across the Southern Alps, Arthurs Pass, Lewis Pass and far to the south, Haast Pass. Apart from mountains, I love visiting river mouths and see the power of river meeting sea. I managed to see the mouths of the Hokitika and Grey rivers and spent time gazing at the Waimakariri, Taramakau, Grey and Hokitika Rivers.


View from near Mt. White Bridge.

I left of Monday day with my nephew Paul, who is about to leave for Pakistan to work for the Red Cross. We drove across the Canterbury Plains, and climbed up to Porter’s Pass onto that upland Alpine plateau. The winter sun draws out the earthy colours of the tussock, barren brown slopes up to sparkling snow-line and sculptured basins leading to piercing summits and a deep blue sky. Such beauty inspires awe in me.

At White’s Bridge we stopped to gaze at the braided Waimakariri and the peaks at the head of the valley. Passed Klondike corner where I have spent many nights coming off climbs and during the Coast to Coast endurance event.


Paul with the Waimakariri river in the background

Winding up to Arthurs Pass township The clusters of beech forest are impressive as the peaks on either side of the road hemn you in.

We drove to the Rolleston Otira Face lookout and watched the cloud roll down from the summit down that fluted face. I recall climbing the Otira Face in 1969 with late Keith McIvor. Later we traversed on to Philistine an enjoyable traverse in those days. Then again in 1995 climbing Rome Ridge with Bruce Watson and Bruce White, and descending by the Otira slide.


Paul took this photo of me while walking up the Temple Basin track


The waterfall from the track to Temple Basin


I did some skiing up here in the 90's and asked Myles Mackintosh if I sould use his photo: "Kilmarnock Spur" on route to Mt Davie (2280m) to show the great skiing at Arthur's Pass.

The new viaduct below Arthur's Pass which cuts 10 minutes off the time




The Hokitika River


I visited the Hokitika River which I rate as one of the most interesting in terms of history and raw beauty. Later that day I also visited the mouth of the Grey River and watched the mighty river pour into the Tasman Sea. I thought of those countless ships that were wrecked crossing the bar.


This shows the Hawea soon after she ran aground at the entrance to the Grey River at 1.30 p.m. on 30 October 1908. There was a heavy swell, and the crew was in imminent danger of being swept overboard. A line was cast on board by rocket and, as shown in this photo, the crew were brought ashore one at a time. The last man landed at 4.15 p.m., and soon after the Hawea broke up.


Murray and Pat Reedy

While in Greymouth I popped into see Pat and Murray Reedy who run Silk Road Adventures from their home south of Greymouth. They are a warm and innovative couple and few, if any, independent operators know Central Asia as well they do. They have a decade of hands on experience behind them and can deliver quality journeys at the right price. I was one of their trip leaders when they first started out and led a journey through Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, looking at the fabled cities and following the Silk Road. So I know first hand the emphasis they put on quality control and how hard they work to ensure that their products are amongst the best designed, planned and supported available.

You get plenty of choice when you travel with Murray and Pat, and can work with them to design your own itinerary or join one of a select small group. I am working with them on a trip I plan to do to Kashgar next year from Pakistan, to China and then on to visit my wife's parents in Kazakhstan.

With Pat and Murray's trips, you can choose to undertake one of their "great overland journeys" and you can join them or mix and match to suit your own interests from the itineraries that they have selected. If you want to learn more about Murray and Pat have a look at their website.
http://www.silkroad.co.nz




I visited Brian Ward (l) who runs Teichelmann's Bed and Breakfast in Hokitika


While I was in Hokitika I popped in to see Brian and Francis Ward who own Teichelmann's Bed and Breakfast using the old surgery of Dr. Ebenezer Teichelmann.
Teichelmann’s Bed & Breakfast offers a glimpse into New Zealand West Coast heritage, featuring fascinating memorabilia from days of pioneering exploration into the Southern Alps. Dr Ebenezer Teichelmann was a renowned mountaineer, photographer and conservationist and had this historic house built as his first home and medical rooms in 1910. I lived on the West Coast for some years and I researched extensively Dr. Ebenezer Teichelmann and published a book in 2006 on him.


Looking towards the Southern Alps from near Maruia Springs.

On Tuesday I drove from Greymouth up the Grey Valley, Springs Junction to Maruia Springs. Driving along the road through the Lewis Pass from Springs Junction to Hamner Springs is a scenic feast – rivers, mountains, mountain tarns and native New Zealand beech forests. We spent a night at Hamner Springs and then back to Christchurch yesterday. Thanks Paul for your superb driving and great company.


Lewis Pass

Later this afternoon I head off to Timaru where my eldest daughter and my three grand children live.I hope to head off to Mount Cook Aoraki early next week, weather permitting. As I write the snow continues to fall in the Southern Alps bringing much needed snow which will later fill up our hydro electric lakes.

194 comments:

Gollum said...

Timaru is my home town - you can get great views of the Hunter Hills from just about anywhere and at certain places you can see Mt Cook - the old rubbish dump was one of them as I found out during a university holiday job.

When we passed through Arthurs Pass in December we stopped at the lookout but couldn't see anything thanks to the rain. I have 3 climbs on my retirement hit list - the Otira face of Rolleston, La Perouse from the Cook Valley and The South Face of Mt Ward in the Hopkins - just don't tell my wife.

I'm damn envious - wish I was there in the snow.

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

The Otira face of Rolleston, La Perouse from the Cook Valley and The South Face of Mt Ward in the Hopkins ! They are all wonderful mountains and fine routes. I climbed the first two but not Mt. Ward. I climbed Mt. Huxley from the south Huxley valley as a youngster and that was a mighty climb. The old knees have gone on me, probably too much kneeling and praying on difficult climbs. Getting knee replacement later in the year so should get a new lease of life.

So Timaru is your home town. Yes the views of Mt. Cook are wonderful. Will pass by the rubbish dump and pass on yr regards.

I was lucky to get good views as we travelled and walked around Arthur's Pass. Still snowing heavily, down to 300 metres at the moment and a skiff on the Port Hills.

You take care and keep writing. I enjoy the chat.

Bob

Marja said...

Oh I so love to drive over Athur's Pass and Lewis Pass. It is indeed paradise. Esspecially in winter it looks so beautiful. See you love rivers as well. I am in love with the wild stony ones as on the last picture. Sorry that the weather is so ugly the last few days. I am looking forward catching up soon.

pohanginapete said...

Bob, welcome home :^)

That sounds like a great day, and it makes me look forward even more to visiting the South Island again. The mention of climbing the Otira Face made me smile — I climbed it in Feb 2006 and, apart from having to climb the bluffs to get onto the face itself, it proved to be one of the best climbs I've done. Just the right degree of scariness, and the perfect kind of weather, too (I wrote about it here)

If you're ever up this way, let me know.

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Thanks Pete. I am pleased you have climbed the Otira face for it is an enjoyable climb. Yes, you must come down to the South Island and revisit some of you haunts. Weather has been lousy the last week, but that's OK. A chance to write and reflect.

Take care

Bob

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There's no doubt, the dude is absolutely just.

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