Showing posts with label West Coast NZ. Show all posts
Showing posts with label West Coast NZ. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 March 2014

Mr. Explorer Douglas


Charlie Douglas (centre of photo) lived on the West Coast of New Zealand from 1867 to 1916, exploring, surveying and mapping the mountains, bush, rivers, lakes and coastline. He was born in Scotland and for his outstanding work he was referred to respectfully as Mr. Explorer Douglas. Recently I have had a few inquiries about Charlie and thought I would run this poem I wrote about him, and published in the NZ Alpine Journal some years back..

CHARLIE DOUGLAS

So what was the inner spring that made you tick ?
In valleys where snow, ice, water and mica mix
Incessant rain and slippery logs
Mosquitoes, sand flies bush and bogs

And ah, paradise lurking in those hot pools
Stripped your rags far way from ’those fools’
As you soaked your matted beard and ropey hair
And a moment of thanksgiving, a silent prayer

Strong, sinewy and stringy as Weka meat
After years of amazing geographical feats
You lay awake, dreaming year after year
Many thought you were a man without a care

But you were putting the world together
While stranded for weeks in nor’westerly weather
Puffing, sucking the old brown brair
In your batwing tent you kindle a fire

No mortgage family possessions houses or barns
You are a free-wheeling man with only socks to darn
A river to cross and a range to measure
Keeping a watchful eye on the wild weather
Weeks of rain and sodden clothes
Notebooks full of maps, observations and prose

Your thrills came from discovery and not wiley tarts,
Betsy Jane at your side, obedient and fast
Never answered back when you got it wrong
The tuis, bellbirds and robins kept you in song
Your footprints were the first in many places,
Mountain top, gorges river and glaciers


The whiskey jar at the Forks, Okarito and Scotts,
Discussing the world with fellow Scots
The jar was your best mate on the binge
You were one of those living over the fringe

Banking almost got you, wife kids and all
But marriage to you was like a pall

Your dreams wafted like smoke from your pipe
Slabs of rata your company during the night
The cursed danps got into every joint
Did you ever ask ‘whats the bloody point ?'

Was it you Charlie or the others who were the fools ?
Your maps, sketches and diaries over which generations drool
No Charlie it was a good deal you got
Harper, and others, you never tolerated that lot
Alpine Club braggards you named them true
Canterbury amateurs who stole feats from you

It was Roberts McFarlane, Bannister and Teichy
They were soul mates of a similar physie
Staunch and modest friends who knew your strengths
Overlooked your weaknesses and came to your defence

The final years in Hokitika with Mrs Ward
Wife of your mate in the mountains who died at a ford

After the stroke you were seen camping at Kaniere
With batwing tent, maps, diaries but without a penny
Possessions and money had no meaning or dues
It was the uncharted land that was treasure to you.

Copyright. Bob McKerrow 2007


Charlie washing his shirt in a stream while his towel dries on a rock behind.

Charlie Douglas
Between 1893 and 1895 Charlie Douglas explored with Arthur P. Harper, a Canterbury mountaineer and lawyer, particularly in the Franz Josef and Fox glacier areas. Harper took this photograph of Douglas washing his shirt in a glacial stream. At this time, Douglas began to muse on his life of exploration: ‘[H]ere I am after thirty years wandering, crouched under a few yards of Calico, with the rain pouring & the Wind & Thunder roaring among the mountains a homeless, friendless, Vagabond, with a past that looks dreary & a future still more so. Still I can’t regret having followed such a life and I know that even if I & thousands besides me perish miserably the impulse which impels them to search the Wild places of the Earth is good’ (quoted in Philip Temple, New Zealand explorers: great journeys of discovery. Christchurch: Whitcoulls, 1985, p. 148).

If you want to read more about this amazing explorer, read Mr Explorer Douglas: John Pascoe's New Zealand Classic




Friday, 30 July 2010

Places of pilgrimages -birds and mountains in New Zealand

I arrived in Colombo in the early hours of Wednesday morning from Christchurch via Singapore. From zero degree celcius to 35 degrees in a day is a bit of a shock to the system. But I arrived with such fond memories of NZ. It was the Tui, the Kea and the Kereru (wood pigeon) who welcomed me back, and an avalanche or two acknowledged my presence. Here are a few photos of the birds and my places of pilgrimage.

Tui on a Kowhai at Ross. All bird photos               : Kira McKerrow








I am always astounded by so many shades of brown, white,  gray, green,  black and blue around the Porter's Pass area. Photo: Bob Mckerrow





A pilgrimage to Arthur's Pass is something I do every trip and look up at Rolleston and say a silent prayer to John Harrison, Bruce Ferguson, Colin Robertson, Michael Harper and Jeffrey Wilby who died in the winter of 1966 in that terrible tragedy. and think of the bravery of rescuers Peter Squires, Ian Gardiner and Hans Bohney who received the Royal Humane Society medal for their efforts. New Zealand mountaineering came of age in that fateful winter of 1966.




            I always visit the three peaks I have climbed, guided and rescued on more than any peaks in NZ: Haast, Lendenfeld and Tasman. Photo: Bob McKerrow      

      Is there any better mountain view from Franz Josef township, than Elie de Beaumont from Canavan's Knob ? Photo: Bob McKerrow

And, further south of Franz Josef, the seldom explored valleys of misty South Westland. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The Waiho River which drains the Burton, Spenser, Callery and Franz Josef glaciers which I could see from my bedroom window when I lived at Franz Josef in the early 90's. Photo: Bob McKerrow

ADDENDUM: Chris Jillet on the summit of Mt. McFettrick, at the head of the Tatare valley, Westland National Park in 1991. I wrote an article in either the 1991 or 1992 NZAJ on this ascent. Chris and I were accompanied by Ed Cotter and Mike Browne, and I remember the four of us sitting in a high camp under McFettrick gazing across at the Maxmillian ridge of Elie de Beaumont, and Ed Cotter describing the route he did with Ed Hillary 50 years earlier.Photo: Bob McKerrow.

This post has been about places of pilgrimages, that I make  on my return to NZ each year. At the forefront of my mind is thoughts and nmemories of those climbing partners who I spent so many happy weeks with in the hills. Quite a few have died. Gollum and Donald have both made reference to Chris Jillet, and surprisingly, we have all climbed with him in at different times. I post this photo to honour a wonderful mountaineer and a superb human being.

Gollum, Donald and others, what do you think about dedicating a blog to Chris Jillet where we can post photos and articles about this ? Bob

Sunday, 18 July 2010

A journey to the West Coast of New Zealand


On Thursday last week I travelled by the Tranzalpine from Christchurch to Greymouth. Photo: Bob McKerrow

On Friday morning Kira, Leith and I walked down to Mananui beach, 5 km south of Hokitika and took this photo. It captures the wild mood of the West Coast. There I could pick out peaks I had climbed: Cook Aoraki, Tasman, Elie de Beaumont, Douglas, Haidinger, Haast, Lendenfeld, Dampier, Vancouver, Malispina, McFettrick, St. Mildred, Red Lion and Drummond. For five days I had clear views of the Southern Alps as I moved down the coast. Here are some photos of the journey.

Approaching Arthur's Pass. Photo: Bob McKerrow
The bridge across the Taramakau River. Photo: Bob McKerrow

A map of Westland.
Sunrise at Mananui Beach, 5 km south of Hokitika.Photo: Bob McKerrow

With my daughter Kira, and her son Leith at Mananui Beach.
Lake Maninapua. Photo: Bob McKerrow



Mount Cook Aoraki, Mt. Tasman. Photo: Bob McKerrow




Forest walk to Mananui beach. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Early morning on the Waitaha River. I know this valley well having climbed at the head of County Stream. In 1993 I was in a party that did the first winter ascent and traverse of Red Lion Peaks. Photo: Bob McKerrow



Lake Ianthe, north of Hari Hari. Photo: Bob McKerrow


The Wanganui River with Hendes Ferry on the right. This was where Carl Hende had his residence and was available with horse to assist people to cross. Photo : Bob McKerrow

Teichelmann country. Blue Lookout and the Lord and Lambert Ranges. Photo: Bob McKerrow









The view from the Wanganui river flats looking to the Lord and Lambert ranges. Photo: Bob McKerrow



The Kakapotahi River. Photo: Bob McKerrow
Kira and Paul have built a house on a hill top, south of Hokitika with a splendid view over the Southern Alps. See Mount Cook Aoraki and Tasman on the right. I spent a few days helping them with painting.

Tasman (l) and Mount Cook Aoraki (r). Photo: Bob McKerrow



The braided Waiho River which drains the Franz Josef, Callery, Spenser and Burton Glaciers. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Franz Josef Glacier. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Franz Josef Glacier from Castle Rocks Hut. Photo: Bob McKerrow

From Almer Hut looking to the Franz neve and the Southern Alps.Photo: Bob McKerrow