Showing posts with label Westland National Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Westland National Park. Show all posts

Tuesday, 27 March 2018

The loves and tragedies of Dorothy of Franz Josef


The Monday Extract: The loves and tragedies of Dorothy of Franz Josef


An extract from a fascinating new book by ex-Hokitika Guardian journalist Cheryl Riley, who tells the stories of remarkable men and women of Westland.
Dorothy Fletcher was born in 1927, the youngest of four children to Alec and Isabella Graham, part-owners of the Franz Josef Hotel. Her mother did not keep good health after Dorothy was born and she grew up guided by her father’s common sense philosophy. Dorothy adored him. “Daddy told us to use our heads – we did – and it worked,” she said.
Barefoot winter and summer, Dorothy learnt mountaineering, guiding, and Search and Rescue. Watching her father organise the construction and maintenance of the water supply, the hydro system, the hotel and later the setting up of the National Parks, she also learned the hospitality industry inside out. She knew every person living in the area, well enough to think of them as family.
But she was sent to boarding school in Christchurch, to Rangi Ruru.  It was “ghastly” wearing a school uniform every day – shoes, socks, tie, blazer, hat and gloves. There was worse. “We were not allowed to seal our letters. It was hateful to know that the headmistress had access to the contents. We were not allowed to go anywhere alone – except to the toilet. Oh yes we were alone in our three-minute bath every second day. The matron ran the bath to three inches deep. Then she timed us – we were allowed not a second over three minutes.”
Travelling to and from school meant a four-hour drive from Franz Josef to the train station in Hokitika. It sometimes happened that there was no one to meet Dorothy when she got off the train. Instead of panicking the young student used her head as her father had so wisely taught her. “I would race around trying to find a ride. The first option was Captain Bert Mercer’s Fox Moth aeroplane at the Southside Airport. Many was the time I would race across the railroad bridge to catch the plane as it was about to leave.”
When World War II was declared, there was an exodus of Franz Josef community members, including hotel staff. The high school student seized her advantage, and returned home. “And so began the best – well the most precious years of my life.”
The day began before daylight in the laundry where fires had to be lit to heat water in a copper container set in concrete over a fire box. White towels, and bed and table linen went into the water to be boiled with soap, and agitated by hand with a stick. The washed linen was then put through a handwringer and into a long concrete trough of cold rinsing water.  It was put through the wringer again, dropped into cane baskets, carried outside and pegged with wooden pegs onto a long, single wire clothesline.
All was well when the sun shone and the wind blew but at Franz Josef, nestled in rain forest beneath the Southern Alps, perfect drying days were not that regular. When it rained the washing was piled into a cart and transferred across a yard to a room set aside for drying. The room had two metal stoves that needed regular stoking.
“The mornings were the busiest, especially in the kitchen when there were often more than 100 packed lunches to prepare and the wood fire had to be kept well stoked for cooking porridge, bacon, eggs and toast for around 200 guests.” Mutton, beef, pork, turkey, duck, chicken and geese were reared for the hotel table on the family farm.
Staff shortages during the war started to take its toll on the Graham family and they decided to sell the hotel business in 1947. That year the hotel had accommodated over 5000 guests. The business had simply grown too big to be run by one family. Sale negotiations were underway when a fire broke out that destroyed the annex and killed four people. However, the sale went ahead. Alec and Peter Graham continued mountain guiding and the hotel burnt to the ground in August 1954. More than 10 years passed before the Government decided to build another very grand hotel at Franz Josef.
Dorothy’s life took on a whole new meaning when she met Peter King in 1957. She was 30 and for the first time in her life she was smitten. King was a handsome war hero who was awarded the Military Cross as a British Commando in World War II. He immigrated to New Zealand in 1946 and joined the New Zealand Army in 1950. Serving as a captain in the Korean War, he lay seriously wounded in the battlefield and was saved by Gunner Derek Rixon who was also wounded but managed to carry his captain to safety. King was awarded a Distinguished Service Order and Rixon was awarded a Distinguished Conduct Medal for this heroic deed.
Completely at home on the glacier and in the mountains, her new masculine companion measured up to the challenge. Together they traversed every nook and cranny in the Franz Josef Valley and mountains. In 1959 they were married and the next year Peter King became the first Westland National Park Board appointed ranger. Their cup of happiness was overflowing. They had a son and Dorothy was in the home after giving birth to a baby girl when tragedy struck on December 12, 1962.
Peter was on his way to visit his wife and daughter when his vehicle went off the road and into Lake Wahapo. Dorothy was left to bring up the two children on her own.
Dorothy worked for the Department of Conservation at an information kiosk near the terminal face of the Franz Josef Glacier. The new chief ranger, Peter Fletcher, frequently called into the kiosk for a chat. One day the ranger’s head appeared around the kiosk door and he popped a question: “Why don’t we grow old together?”
Dorothy liked the idea and they were married in 1974. For the second time in her life Dorothy found happiness married to a Franz Josef Chief Conservation Ranger by the name of Peter. Sadly tragedy loomed just around the corner yet again. After three years of marriage Peter Fletcher was killed crossing the Copland Pass. Peter was with a party of Westland National Park Board members when he and Jim Maitland fell to their deaths on the Mount Aoraki/Cook side of the pass.
Dorothy was philosophical about suffering another devastating loss. “I am no worse off after growing up in the worst Depression,” she said, “and managing on my own with two children and very little money.”
From Guts and Determination: History Makers in Westland by Cheryl Riley, available for $49.95 from selected bookstores on the West Coast, by emailing the author (write_riley@xtra.co.nz) or through her Facebook page.

The Spinoff Review of Books is proudly brought to you by Unity Books.

Saturday, 7 June 2014

Building of NZ Alpine Club Centennial Hut.

Bits and pieces easily get left out of our mountain history for various reasons. The history of the NZAC Centennial Hut on the Franz Josef nerve has various omissions and I would like to add an important piece. Most know that the idea was conceived in September 1989 when the the Alpine Club’s Centennial was only two years away and the Westland National Park Management Plan provided for a hut on the upper Franz Josef nevé, and Bob McKegg, Lindsay Main and Alex Palman were keen to take the project on.
 We put in two snow markers, one on each outcrop of rock to measure snow depth. Photo; Bob McKerrow

I took over as the DoC field centre manager (Former Chief Ranger position) in July 1990 and got interested in the project. Acknowledging earlier problems encountered in the design and location of other huts in the Fox and Franz neves, Alex Miller, Stu Drake and I worked closely with the NZAC. It was agreed that before any construction took place, DoC would install snow markers.



Stuart Drake and I flew in for a few days in April 1991 and dug in and guyed the two snow markers at the prosed Centennial Hut site. (see photo above) Photo: Bob McKerrow


Stuart Drake holding one of the snow markers in place at the NZAC Centennial Hut site, as I tensioned the guy wires. Photo: Bob McKerrow 

 Mt. Spencer taken from Canavan's Knob, Franz Josef Waiho. Photo Bob McKerrow

This was a wonderful outing as the weather was good and we did a new route on Mt. Spencer which is recorded in the Aoraki guide book. A variation to the North West Ridge: climb the face to the right. The first pitch and a half is straightforward and is followed by five pitches of 14-15 on good rock, to where it meets the NW Ridge. Some small roofs provide the cruxes.
Carol Nash, K Longhurst, Feb 1986. (B McKerrow and S Drake also climbed another variant in the general area in Apr 1991)

 Mountaineering courses in New Zealand are based out of great huts like the NZAC owned Centennial hut – located at the head of the Franz Josef Glacier. (Photo Geoff Wyatt.












Alex Miller who worked with me at DoC and who owned his own plane and airstrip at Waiho, flew in weekly to check the snow markers and to see if the snow was banking up or not. Colin Tuck from Glacier Helicopters and Rusty Knight from the Helicopter Lines, also kept an eye on the site. Bruce Watson, the DoC conservator was very supportive of DoC assisting the NZAC. Sadly when I left a few years later, Chris Hickford took over from me and cut DoC support, which was typical of the new penny-pinching breed of conservation bureaucrats.

Here is some further history from the NZAC website.

The idea of a high hut on the Franz Josef Glacier surfaced during a ski mountaineering trip by the “Rumdoodle” party comprising Bob McKegg, Lindsay Wood, John Gooding, Alex and Diane Parton, and Margie Swainson in September 1989.
It quickly became clear that the timing for such a project was just right. As well as there being a real need for a hut in the area, the Alpine Club’s Centennial was only two years away, the Westland National Park Management Plan provided for a hut on the upper Franz Joseph nevé, and Bob, Lindsay and Alex were keen to take the project on.
A large amount of work was then required to raise funds, select and obtain site approval, finalise the design and organise construction. A substantial bequest of over NZ$12,000 was allocated to this project. The funds had been kindly left to the Club by Ruth Adams, as a thank you for the assistance given to her during the La Perouse Rescue of 1948
Centennial Hut was officially opened by the Honorable Denis Marshall, Minister of the Environment, at a ceremony at Franz on 5th February 1994. It had taken a little over four years to build from conception to completion, and spanned the Club’s 1991 centennial year.

 Franz Josef Glacier Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere

(10 routes)

Access: 
From the east, Graham Saddle (Route 7.11) provides a good route. From the West Coast, routes up the Franz Josef Glacier can often be troublesome. Travel directly up the glacier usually depends on the state of the second icefall below the Almer Ridge and Almer Hut. Check with Westland National Park staff or Franz Josef guides about the state of the icefall. A route along the Baird Range to Almer Hut, known as the “Goatpath”, exists, but is difficult and not recommended.
A much longer alternative lies via the Fritz Range, which separates the Franz Josef and Fox Glacier watersheds. This route is an excellent ski tour and in winter a fast way from Pioneer Hut (see the Fox Glacier section), provided the weather is fine. From the terminal of the Franz Josef Glacier, commence by crossing the glacier above the first icefall and ascending to Castle Rocks Hut. From the hut climb to the saddle above and traverse Mt Moltke, continuing along the undulating Fritz Range, crossing the Sollas Ridge. Further along, Halcombe Col provides quick access to the Fox Glacier. To access the Franz Josef Névé, continue further along and angle up to the Pench Ridge, west of Von Bulow, and follow around the Davis Snowfield to Centennial Hut. Centennial Hut is situated on the ridge which extends north-west below Mt Jervois. If using this route, take a map, as route finding can sometimes be difficult
- beware of mist later in the day.
If the above routes do not appeal, then good access to the Franz Josef Glacier can be found via the Fox Glacier and West Hoe or Newton passes. It is also possible to fly into the Geikie and Davis snowfields by ski plane or into Almer and Centennial huts by helicopter, from the West Coast, or the Aoraki/Mt Cook side.
Shelter
Almer Hut. Owned and operated by the Westland National Park, the hut has cooking utensils, blankets, radio and 12 bunks (~1680m, grid ref: 841-443).
Castle Rocks Hut. A WNP hut with four bunks – but no radio (~1160m, grid ref: 808-466).
Centennial Hut. An NZAC hut, it has a radio, cell phone coverage, solar powered lights (including a 12v cell phone re-charging jack!) and 12 bunks. There is also a vestibule including a warden’s bunkroom (~2400m, grid ref: 864-406).
Times
Franz Josef Glacier Road to Castle Rocks Hut 4-5 hours (check glacier conditions).
Franz Josef Glacier Road to Almer Hut 1 day (depending on icefall).
The “Goatpath” Route 8-14 hours (local knowledge necessary).
Almer Hut to Centennial Hut 3-4 hours.
Almer Hut to Pioneer Hut 5-7 hours.
Almer Hut to Graham Saddle 4-8 hours.
Centennial Hut to Graham Saddle ~1 hour.
Centennial Hut to Pioneer Hut 2-3 hours.