Back in the Southern Alps of New Zealand

Today I visited the 'Home of Mountaineering' the NZ Alpine Club headquarters in Christchurch for the first time and it was so good to meet Margaret who has been running the HQ for many years and has been so helpful. On my way out I met Pat Deavoll, who recently did an amazing first ascent in the Wakhan corridor in Afghanistan and planning to return for another expedition. I am currently reading her 'book 'wind from a distant summit.' Then  I met Kester Brown, the managing editor/director of the NZ Alpine Journal and NZ Climber. Then 'Grubby Knees' breezed in, the one and only Geoff Gabities, with a copy of  Paul Maxim's book on Bill Denz in his hand. I hadn't seen Geoff for 20 years or so.

My last posting comprised photographs of the Godley, Murchison, Whataroa, Perth, Tasman, Spencer, Burton and Callery valleys and their mountains, spurs and rivers. This posting is on Franz, Fox, Balfour, Hooker and Tasman.

The recently named Hillary Ridge to the left leading to the low peak of Aoraki Mt. Cook, The Caroline Face and the east ridge ( I did an ascent with Chris Timms on Christmas Day,1971) and Mt. Tasman and Lendenfeld out to the right. Photo: Bob McKerrow 

A photo I took about ten days ago looking from Glacier Peak to Douglas. Coincidetally, I am reading the book about Bill Denz 'Bold Beyond Belief'' and am reminded that Jim Cowie and I did a traverse from Glacier peak to Mt. Douglas with Bill Denz Chris Frazer  on 26 December 1971. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Mounts Tasman, Torres, Dampier and Aoraki Cook. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Looking down the Tasman Glacier to all highest peaks in New Zealand. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Mt. Tasman and its northern aspects, with the Balfour glacier prominent centre right. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The middle section of the Fox Glacier as it twists seawards. Photo: Bob McKerrow

From Glacier Peak, Douglas, Haidinger round to Haast with the Fox neve in the foreground. Photo: Bob McKerrowh

The summit of Mt. Tasman. Photo: Bob McKerrow

South face of Hicks. How readily I recall John Glasgow guiding the famous eye doctor, Fred Hollows and spending a night with them in Empress Hut after the ascent. They climbed it from the ridge on the left leading up to Harper's Saddle.Photo: Bob McKerrow

The South Face of Aoraki Mt. Cook and an interesting perspective of the three summits and the summit ridge. I recall guiding Vern Leader who was 64 years of age with Aat Vervoorn in 1973. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Minarets round to just past Graham saddle. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Tomorrow I return to Sri Lanka after a most rejuvenating holiday in the South Island of New Zealand. I have seen most of the mountains in the Southern Alps from Lewis Pass down to Mt. Poseidon, at the head of the Rock Burn, close to Mt. Earnslaw. I didn’t climb anything significant, but a few smaller peaks in the foothills. But the joy of being back in the mountains after working hard for the last year in Sri Lanka for the Red Cross on winding up the tsunami operation, and working with internally displaced families and on a large flood recovery operation

My first day in 2012

I wanted New Year's day to be one we would enjoy immensely, while setting the scene for a year ahead. We drove from Wanaka to Queenstown in Central Otago, New Zealand, then met our friends Kim and Glennys Logan, and son Inia, just north of Queenstown. Our desitination Pigeon Island at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu. What I really wanted to do was introduce my boys to lake fishing, climb a small mountain, and let my family who hardly know New Zealand, experience life on a small remote island in view of our mighty southern Alps. Kim Logan, a close friend and one of New Zealand's leading mountain guides, mountaineers, fisherman and hunter, was a great companion for the day. Being Maori, he has a knack of explaining the flora, fauna and rich history. in such a fascinating manner, as they are a people of oral tradition.

We went to Pigeon Island (centre left) by boat from the Queenstown-Glenorchy road, climbed to the highest point, fished in the lake, played cricket, had a wonderful BBQ with excellent Wanaka white wine, and Kim explained the history and environment. Photo: Bob McKerrow 


Ablai, Inia and Mahdi on Kim's boat


Kim and Glnnys Logan at the highest point on Pigeon Island with the east and west peaks of Mt. Earnlaw on the upper right, peaks which Kim has climbed at least 40 times. He climbed Aoraki Mount Cook about 30 times by 13 different routes as well as climbing in the Himalaya and Karakoram,

One of the 'hard men' of the NZ mountains Kim is a legend with his solo ascents, first ascents and extensive climbs throughout NZ. Kim rarely records what he does carrying on the oral tradition of capturing Maori history.

When we were on the summit of the high point on Pigeon Island, Kim and I were looking at the mountains we had climbed at the heads of the Rees, Dart, Beansburn, Rockburn, Routeburn and Greenstoen valleys, peaks all named by my Grandfather, James McKerrow surveyor and explorer. The second mountain I ever climbed was Mt. Poseidon in the Park Pass area at the head of the Rock Burn, and Kim pointed it out with his ever-sharp eye. It is the second peak on the left skyline. I climbed it in February 1967 along with some other unnamed and unclimbed peaks adjacent to it.

When the four of us came down from the mountain, the boys had fashioned out a cricket pitch and were in the middle of a match, Ablai bowling, Inia batting, and Mahdi in at wicket keeper. With Ablai and I having met Muttiah Muralitharan and Brendan and Nathan McCallum the day before at a cricket match in Queenstown, Ablai  was greatly inspired. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Kim whose knowledge of flora and fauna is marvellous, took time out to show us the flowering southern beach and the Koromiko pictured above. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Our son Mahdi went fishing for the first time and was a highlight of his life for him. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Relics of early Maori and European settlers were to be seen on various parts of the island. Here is an old gold miner's hut and used later by shepherds. Photo: Bob McKerrow

As we boated across the lake to our vehicles, Mount Earnslaw said 'goodbye' by giving us a perfectly clear view of its snow covered ramparts. What a day to start 2012 and for me it gave me a glimpse of my priorities for 2012: family, exercise, friends, being adventurous and risk taking, and a balanced life like this will  make me more committed and productive in my work for the Red Cross. Photo: Bob McKerrow