Belief in the inherent goodness of humankind - Geneva

In these days of economic recession, increasing problems attributed to global warming and new conflicts, it's refreshing to visit again a city that stands for international diplomacy, multiculturalism and belief in the inherent goodness of humankind. Geneva was the birthplace of Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778), who once said: "War is a relation, not between man and man, but between state and state, and individuals are enemies only accidentally." One-time resident Henri Dunant received the first-ever Nobel Peace Prize in 1901 for his work in founding the Red Cross, which is based here. Geneva is also the European seat of the United Nations. A visit will make you proud to be a rational, caring human being. Visiting Geneva makes me proud to work for the Red Cross too.

As the Tsunami operation draws to a close, I was in Geneva last week for various planning meetings for the transition to our longer term work. Over the weekend I had a chance to be part of vibrant and diverse Geneva.

Every step you take in Geneva, is one through history, back to, and before the Romans.

At this place where Lake Geneva drains into the Rhone River, Pont du Mont Blanc, were early bridges and punts that ferried great armies and conquerors to spoils and land on the other side. Silks from China made their way across this point to lucrative markets in Germany and beyond. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The first traces of human civilization in Geneva, discovered on the shores of Lake Léman, date from around 3000 BC. The hill of the Old City, however, was not inhabited until 1000 BC. Later, when Rome conquered Geneva, it was defended by a small Celtic tribe. In 58 BC, Julius Caesar drove off an attack by the Helvetii. At the height of the Roman Empire, around 400 AD, it became a bishopric. The first recorded use of the name Geneva was by Julius Caesar. The Romans had taken over this area from its previous occupants, the Celts. Successive invasions saw control of the city pass through the hands of Burgundians, Franks, Merovingians, Carolingians until the 1500s. Around this time the city began to grow in importance and its fairs became internationally renowned. Geneva was on the far end of the famous Silk Road (route) that I have written much about, and from far off China, and via Itraly, the silks came.

From the mid-1500s, Protestant reformer Jean Calvin was active in the city, and it earned the nickname ‘The Protestant Rome', attracting floods of refugees fleeing persecution in other parts of Europe.
In 1602 an invasion by the Duke of Savoy was repulsed, and nowadays celebrations of this event (l'Escalade) are the city's most important festival. When I lived in Geneva for five years, the celebration of the l'Escalade was the highlight of the year for me. Women reenacted, how they repulsed the enemy by pouring scalding cauldrons of soup onto the soldiers who were trying to climb the city walls.


An aerial view of Geneva. Thanks to Geneve Tourisme for permission to use this photo.

In 1792 Genevans overthrew their ancien régime aristocratic leaders and declared a republic, which was swiftly annexed by France. With Napoleon's defeat and the carving up of his Empire in 1813, Geneva opted to join the Swiss Confederation, and was accepted in 1815. The Red Cross came to life here in 1864, and then the League of Nations after World War I.

For a wayfarer like me, journeys to Geneva are pilgrimages. To cross Pont du Mont Blanc and feel the feet of conquerors who controllewd the trade over this hostoric bridge, to see the old Russian Church preserved and respected, to meet old friends Ian and Laurence Clarke, both of whom I climbed and trekked with in Afghanistan. Ian is now a de-mining specialist with the UN. .

Also to meet with my boss Jerry Talbot (below), a fellow New Zealander and a 'living treasure', who has served the Red Cross movement for more than 40 years in most corners of the globe, was another learning experience for me. He has so much wisdom to share and I had a delightful evening with he and his wife Jen.

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What a surprise when I went into a Cafe with Heela, and I met Umed, who worked as a radio operator for me in the middle of a civil war in Tajikistan in 1997. I had not seen him since 1999 and did not know where he was. He now works for our Finance Department in Geneva at the IFRC.

But let's forget my work for a minute. I had the whole of Saturday to savour Geneva. I was out on the streets at 8 a.m, on a misty cold morning taking in the sights of the Lake, the architecture and the mighty Rhone flowing out of Switzerland into France. I saw churches, temples and other places of worship where people pray in peace and safety.

On Saturday noon, I went to the Cafe de Paris for the best Entrecote steak in Europe. It is cooked in front of you in butter and herbs, with tasty pomme frittes and a mixed salad.
, See photo below


The Cafe de Paris, not far from the Geneva Railway Station.Photo: Bob McKerrow


Not far from the Cafe de Paris, a huge crowd was gathering. I was curious. At least 50 police in riot gear were standing by in quite a relaxed mood. The crowd was quickly building up to 500 people and I found out they were from left wing political parties. It was strange to see red flags with the hammer and sickle flying high after so many years absent from the world's gaze. I left after 15 minutes and headed back to the Hotel.

On my way back to the Hotel I passed these two characters above, obviously heading to the demonstration down the road. They grunted at me when I asked if I could take a photo. I thanked them profusely for permitting me to record their art.

Frank Jordans, a writer for AP writes about the protest turning bad after I left

Riot police fired tear gas and water cannons at bottle-throwing leftist demonstrators in Geneva who protested Saturday against the annual World Economic Forum meeting in the Swiss Alps.

Police chased black-clad protesters through the narrow streets of what is known as the "city of peace," as Saturday shoppers took refuge in bars and cafes. An Associated Press reporter on the scene saw a few minor injuries.

The protest of hundreds of people was largely peaceful until police blocked a group from walking to the center of the city. Some in the crowd threw bottles, and police responded with tear gas.

The violence was a long way from the target of the protesters' anger, the World Economic Forum in Davos, a five-hour train ride from Geneva. The forum is an annual gathering of the world's business and political elite.This is Geneva. A city of many refugees where you can protest, within acceptable limits, a city that stands for international diplomacy, multiculturalism and belief in the inherent goodness of humankind.

Boats on a late misty afternoon, moored on Lake Geneva. Photo: Bob McKerrow