Friday, 20 March 2009

Expeditions and climbs in the Hindu Kush - Afghanistan

Today I updated an article of the various expeditions and climbs I was part of in the Hindu Kush mountains of Afghanistan between 1993 and late 1996.
John Tinker (l) and Ian Clarke with Mir Samir in the background. The route they attempted was a ridge on the face just to the left of centre to the left of a small avalanche in a snow gulley: Photo: Bob McKerrow

FROM THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1995
Mir Samir and ascent of P5000. After years when it was too dangerous to enter the mountains of Afghanistan, New Zealander Bob McKerrow and Englishmen Ian Clarke and Jon Tinker headed for Mir Samir in the Hindu Kush. McKerrow is head of the International Red Cross in Afghanistan and Clarke is a former Royal Marine, now head of the Halo Trust mine clearance organisation in Afghanistan.

Tinker has worked in the country a number of times in the last seven years.The three climbers set out from Kabul on September 23, 1994, acclimatizing near the Salang Pass before setting out for Parian in the upper Panjchir.

There four horses were hired to carry food and equipment up the Chamar valley to base camp at 3,400 m. Clarke's skills were put to the test when the saw air-dropped scatterable anti-personnel mines.

They established a high camp at 4,300 m on September 29.Because of the deep snow, the two Englishmen made slow progress the next day to bivouac at 4,900 meters on an unclimbed snow route on the southwest face of Mir Samir. On October 1 they made While Clarke and Tinker were climbing Mir Samir, McKerrow climbed an unclimbed peak at approximately 5000 metres, a prominent feature when viewed from the Chamar Valley. (end of article from American Alpine Club Journal, 1995.)a summit attempt.but unseasonable deep snow turned the back at 5200 meters, some 600 meters from the summit.

Clarke and Tinker in a burned out tank at the Salang Pass. Photo: Bob McKerrow
The start of the Mir Samir trip. Two horses with supplies are watched by a gunner protecting the valley. Photo: Bob McKerrow

We spent a few night in the Panjcher valley. This trigger-happy commander put us up for a few nights free. Photo: Bob McKerrow



Tinker with parts of land mines which we found scattered through the region. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Bob McKerrow (l) with John Tinker at Base Camp on Mir Samir. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The donkey that carried our supplies in with Mir Samir in the background. Photo: Bob McKerrow

I couldn't resist putting the photo of Eric Newby taken on their attempt on Mir Samir in 1956 and an extract from his obituary in the New York Times, October 24, 2006.

Fifty years ago, in the summer of 1956, Mr. Newby set out on the trip that would make him famous: a voyage by station wagon, foot and horseback to climb Mir Samir, a 20,000-foot peak in Nuristan, a wild region in northeastern Afghanistan. The fact that he had never climbed a mountain did not deter him in the slightest.

Mir Samir. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Mr. Newby chronicled the trip in “A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush,” published in Britain by Secker & Warburg in 1958 and in the United States by Doubleday the next year. As in all his work, the narrative was marked by genial self-effacement and overwhelming understatement.

Bob McKerrow reading some pages from Eric Newby's A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush to children whose Grandfathers helped Newby. We retraced a large part of their journey, Photo: Bob McKerrow

Reviewing the book in The New York Times Book Review in 1959, William O. Douglas, a noted travel memoirist who by day was a justice of the United States Supreme Court, called the book “a chatty, humorous and perceptive account.” He added: “Even the unsanitary hotel accommodations, the infected drinking water, the unpalatable food, the inevitable dysentery are lively, amusing, laughable episodes.”


Here is the article I wrote on various climbs in Afghanistan we did between 1993 and 1996..

No foreigners have climbed in Afghanistan since the Soviets arrived in late 1978. I had heard about the passes and valleys strewn with land mines so it was with some trepidation I embarked from Kabul in October 1994 on what was probably the first expedition into the Hindu Kush for at least 17 years.
Roads in the Hindu Kush are difficult to negotiate in winter. We are heading up to the Salang Tunnel which is the only tunnel through the Hindu Kush. Photo: Bob McKerrow

I travelled with two British climbers, Ian Clarke and John Tinker, to the Chamar valley for an attempt Mir Samir, a peak made famous by Eric Newby in his book, A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush. Tinker was fresh off an ascent of Everest by a new route on the north side and Clarke was head of a British Mine clearance organisation in Afghanistan and was a necessary companion as the area had received large amounts of small scatterable mines, dropped from Soviet aircrafts to prevent the freedom fighters crossing the mountain passes.

Having lunch at our base camp with a bunch of Pashtoon soldiers returning from just being released from prison in the north, to their home in the east of Afghanistan, a journey of 400 km through remote wild mountain areas. John Tinker left, and Ian Clarke 3rd from left. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Our safety was dependent on his knowledge of mines and where battles had taken place. Tinker and Clarke attempted an unclimbed face on Mir Samir and got surprising high considering the unseasonably soft snow that had fallen.
The mountains to the extreme left of Mir Samir at the head of the Chamar Valley. Photo: Bob McKerrow

While the others were attempting Mir Samir, I climbed an unnamed peak around 5000 metres and looked over to the enticing mountains of Nuristan, formerly Kafirstan. We explored a number of neighbouring regions with the hope of returning to do further climbing. .In June 1995 I did another trip was Clarke, crossing from the Panjcher valley to southern Badakshan by way of the 4260 m Anjuman Pass.

Early 1995, Ian Clarke and I did another trip over the Anjuman Pass on a journey towards the Wakhan Corridor. Photo: Bob McKerrow

It was a unique opportunity to explore this spectacular part of the Hindu Kush and check routes on the major peaks in the area ranging from 5900 to 6500 metres.

A rather dubious group we came across. Photo: Bob McKerrow

One of the best peaks in the area in Kohi Bandak. The highlight of the trip was when returning back over the Anjuman Pass when at about 3400 metres in high alpine pastures we met about 50 Kuchi (nomad) families on their annual journey to this area. Some were on the move, other camping in their black, low-slung goat hair tents. We passed strings of camels with babies and young children with intricately embroidered bonnets, tied on the backs.


Camped at a lake on the northern side of the Hindu Kush. We crossed by Kotali Anjuman, the low pass on the right. Photo: Bob McKerrow


Kuchi nomads wending their way through the Hindu Kush.

Young girls with page-boy style hair cuts, flashed their shy blue eyes at us as we passed.

We stopped in tents to share pots of tea and watched how they cared for their animals. Young goats were inside the tent, sheltering from the hot sun, women tenderly carried young lambs in their arms, and an old lame sheep, rode past on the back of a camel. Over the hillsides women and children were gathering alpine herbs, wood, leaves and wild vegetables. Nearby an old women was weaving a carpet. This is what the mountains of Afghanistan are about, tough friendly mountain people who have a symbiotic relations with the hills. They name their children after the mountains, names such as ‘Kohzad’, meaning of the mountains.


Kuchi nomads on the move.

Despite the warmth of the people, many disasters befall them. Thousands are killed annually by avalanches and landslides. In late March word reached Kabul that a massive landslides had hit the village of Qarluk, situated high in the mountains of Badakhshan.
I was part of a Red Cross survey team that walked and rode by horse to the site. The whole village had been engulfed killing 350 people, all women and children. The landslide occurred at 11 am when the men and boys were out in the fields and the women. We arrived to find only one female survivor, 11 year old Gulnesa Beg, her arm broken in two places and with her good arm, hugging her father. A whole village wiped out by nature. Here we spent weeks running a relief operation to assist during the emergency phase and started helping these rugged Hazara people put their lives back together again.

In August this year, the highlight of my time in Afghanistan was a trip to Nuristan, the legendary 'land of light'.
Parun Valley, Nuristan. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The Afghan Red Cross is establishing a medical clinic in the Parun valley and I went with our medical staff. Nuristan hugs the southern side of the Hindu Kush and is been isolated from the rest of the country. Six main valleys make up Nuristan each with their own language and for four to five months of the year, the mountain passes in and out of Nuristan are blocked. In is an area where snow panthers, wolves and fox thrive in forests almost untouched by human hand, this is paradise on earth. These blue-eyed and sometimes blond haired people claim they are either descendants of the original Aryans, while others say they are descendants of Alexander the Great. In 1895 they were forcibly converted to Islam and even today their are remnants of their former pagan past. Nuristani villages cling to mountain sides, sometimes perched on peak-tops. a legacy of the past to avoid invaders. Like the mountain Tajiks, the Nuristanis are true mountaineers. In 1889 George Robertson the author of the book ‘Kafirs of the Hindu Kush’, described the Nuristanis as" 'magnificent mountaineers<-"' because of their mountain skills, fitness and agility.
Skiing near the Salang Pass. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The northern entrance to the Salang Tunnel and the men who keep the road open. February 1996. Bob McKerrow

A soldier we met on the way. Photo: Bob McKerrow Mckerrow and Tinker sorting out gear at Base Camp in 1994. Photo: Bob McKerrow

The writer sitting on an old Soviet tank. Photo: Bob McKerrow

Our last climbs in Afghanistan were in June 1996. I went with Mathias Luft, Ross Everson and Bruce Watson. Mathias and Ross climbed  Kohe Jalgya 6000+m, the peak in the background in the photo above. Bruce and I climbed a 5000 m peak 

So in three years in Afghanistan, (1993-96)I was fortunate to get out to many parts of the Hindu Kush, and explore, trek and climb. With the difficult security situation today, I was so lucky to have taken that opportunity.

69 comments:

Jamie said...

Hey great photos and story!

I read Newbys Hindu Kush book last year, great read, loved it how he just bumped into Theisiger. Classic. Just like David Lewis (my current read) rafting up next to Jacques Costeau after two months jury rigged in the southern ocean.

Keep getting those stories online Bob, they will be an interesting resource for people for a long time

Jamie

Bob McKerrow said...

Kia Ora Jamie

I have just added a few more photos. Yes, I think what drives me to post these stories is that few people have had that opportunity to climb during a war in the country and the experiences were unique. I enjoyed your recent video/music postings on your blog. Well done. Pretty fancy mate.Bob

Ruahines said...

Kia ora Bob,
A great post, always enjoy reading, and viewing, your mountain adventures and interactions with all sorts of wonderful people.
Interesting to read the name William O. Douglas,a real American hero in my view. Some of the stories of his outdoor adventures were among the first I ever read as a kid, and he had the future interest of nature always on his plate.
I will have to add the Newby book to my list. I enjoyed Paterika's review of your book.
Cheers,
Robb

Bob McKerrow said...

kia Ora Robb

I am pleased you are a fan of William O. Douglas, who was a great travel book reviewer and man of many parts.

Also pleased you enjoyed the post and the people I met. It is the people who make it so interesting.

Sleep restfully tonight.

Bob

Ruahines said...

Kia ora Bob,
An interesting thread has begun on the comments on my last post. About solo travel in the mountains of New Zealand. I would be keenly interested in your views. Hope your week is progressing well.
Aroha,
Robb

Donald said...

Great post Bob. Thanks for sharing.

This so unknown region of mountains is one thing, but they'll presumably endure with little change for many years. Whereas the humane insights you've given us of the locals is something I'll treasure. e.g. I can't imagine what it'd be like for dads and sons to come back to a village of 350 dead wives and daughters - I get tearful just writing this. Still tears don't help much, so more power to you and those you toil with in your inspirational aid work.

More soon...

Cheers

Donald

Bob McKerrow said...

Dear robb

Ablai and I are off in a few hours to Hong Kong to watch the HK 7s rugby. I will write something about solo travel in the coming days. Cheers

Bob

Bob McKerrow said...

Dear Donald

This region will not change much because of its remoteness and war happening all around.

Yes it was tragic to find a village where all the females died, bar one, young Gulnesa Beg. I can never forget her. Tears were in my eyes for many days when we were helping the surviving males.
Working in 'storehouses of sorrow' takes its toll, but it is worth it. The memories stick forever.

Bob

david santos said...

Really great work and great story!
Fantastic photos and nice colours.
Have a nice weekend!

Ruahines said...

Kia ora Bob,
I just read about the dam breaking and I hope you and the family are safely out of harms way. My thoughts are with all those affected by this disaster. Kia kaha.
Robb

Bob McKerrow said...

Thanks David. Pleased you liked the photos and story. I was watching Portugal play rugby over the weekend at the Hong Kong Sevens, They played well. Bob

Bob McKerrow said...

Kia Ora Robb

Yes, we got the news when we arrived in Hong Kong. Naila and Mahdi are fine and the Indonesian Red Cross are out there helping those affected. Be home tonight. Bob

Ruahines said...

Kia ora Bob,
Glad to read the family is well and safe, it has been on my mind as I am not familiar with the geography of Jakarta and its environs. My thoughts are with those impacted.
Hope you Ablai were able to enjoy the 7's, good to see the competition get a bit of parity.
Just got Norm Hardie's book in the mail, looking forward to an enjoyable read.
Cheers,
Robb

Bob McKerrow said...

Kia Ora Robb

I am pleased you have got a copy of Norm hardie's nook. A great man and an even greater read. Gopt home late last night and the family are safe, thank God. Bovb

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Philip said...

Bob's story is wonderful.

I am currently working in Panjshir, Afghanistan. I am researching successful ascents of Mir Samir. I've found no successful climbs recorded on-line. Any assistance would be appreciated. Respond to pr_abbey@hotmail.com

Truthteller said...

I was the youngest member of a scientific expedition to study the glaciers on Mir Samir in 1965. Such glaciers provide almost all the water to sustain most of the agriculture in Afghanistan. We climbed a number of neighbouring peaks and while we were there a Japanese team mounted a successful ascent of Mir Samir.
Howard Horsley

Bob McKerrow said...

Thank you Truthteller, Thanks for providing me this information. I will follow up on my Afghanistan blog, Mountains of Our Minds.Bob

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