Wednesday, 12 May 2010

Dispatches from Bangkok. Challenges in a Mega City !

Early morning in Sukhumvit Road Bangkok

After being in Kuala Lumpur for 4 days last week, Jakarta for the weekend and now in Bangkok, it is such a joy to be in this vibrant and hospitable city.

Bangkok is one of my favourite cities, having first visited in March 1975.
This morning I went for a walk. Here is my dispatch:

At first light I head out of my hotel on Soi 5, Sukhumvit. I had only gone 50 metres when I saw three heavily armed soldiers, chatting peacefully to locals. One is drinking a cup of coffee. A tourist with a camera, quietly creeps closer to soldiers, and snaps a picture. Our security instructions tell us not to turn right as the stand-off between the anti-Govt Red Shirts and Govt are taking place not far away. On May 8 two Thai policemen were killed and 13 wounded in a gun and grenade attacks. The headlines in the papers this morning announce that the PM has told the Reds to leave today. I hope we don’t see more clashes in this usually peaceful city, but I have a feeling it will come to a head in the next 24 hours.

The traffic builds up early morning on Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok

I go onto Sukhumvit Road and walk by the entrance to Nana Station and head down towards Asok. First I thread my way through the sidewalk clothing market, next my nostrils are filled with spice-filled clouds of smoke billowing from barbecues cooking chicken, fish and other tasty looking morsels. The street is beginning to fill with people walking elegantly to work.

A young lady comes up to me and asks if I want a massage. I say no, but she persists, and puts her arm round my waist. I politely remove her arm and she goes away. It is just after 6 a.m.

There are more buskers and beggars on the streets than I recall on my last visit in 2009.

Foodstalls on the pavement serve delicious food.

Before the Westin hotel I am engulfed in more clouds of smoke coming from a bevy of people cooking breakfast on barbecues. I pass Asok station and turn left into Asok Road. A Monk in saffron robes has a bowl in his outstretched arms waiting for food. A Nun, 20 metres away, in a drab grey robe is also asking for food.

Suddenly I am in the midst of the fruit and vegetable market, where exotic mouth-watering fruits bunch, hang and attract. The jostling worsens as more the shoppers tangle with workers hurrying to offices and factories. Clangs, slams and crashes come from adjacent building sites. It's a busy city.

I am attracted by a sign outside an unusual building, and it reads 'Siam Culture Centre by Royal Appointment.' As opening hours were 9 a.m., I am not allowed in.

Outdoor side walk cafes serve food to hungry workers and beside, butchers chop meat, bakers roll dough and cooks stir huge woks.

A ticket seller on the roadside.

After a few kms, I retrace my steps back Soi 5 and go through the alley which connects to Soi 3. Three north African women, dressed in burhka and veils charge towards me like a rugby front row and I step aside. Men in long white robes and colourful head scarves and turbans drink coffee in small cafes. Many of the signs are in Arabic and most of the people are from the Middle east and North Africa.

A small flower market in Sukhumvit.

My early morning walk in Sukhumvit is over, and I go back to the hotel to prepare for the day. The second day of a conference of  preparing for our Red Cross programmes in South East Asia.

With troops and opposition factions at a standoff just down the road from my hotel, an increasingly polluted city, the water in the shower in the hotel a brownish colour and the jostling of people for space shows yet again that the escalating human vulnerability is among the many challenges facing people in cities and other densely populated areas around the globe. Yet the urban way of life also presents enormous opportunities and can serve as an engine of social inclusion, cultural expression, diversity and economic growth. But the challenges for the Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement are many.

Violence, poverty, food shortages, insufficient health care, (including a shortage of safe blood) inadequate access to water and sanitation are just some of the challenges facing city politicians, administrators and the Red Cross in these mega cities.

For the first time, more than 50% of the world’s population is living in urban areas, a figure that is forecast to rise to more than 60% in 2030. Cities in the developing world are expected to account for 95% of urban growth over the next two decades.

Last Saturday (May 8) in a small community in South Jakarta, I celebrated World Red Cross and Red Crescent Day, with the Jakarta Chapter of the Indonesian Red Cross (PMI). We focussed attention on both the challenges and opportunities presented by urbanization. All around the world, National Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies are working with city leaders and civil society to address urban challenges by aiming at their root causes. They focus on promoting diversity, opposing discrimination, and joining in efforts to provide decent social services –including the high quality of blood donor service-- and to ensure that adequate protection, preventive health-care, education and disaster risk reduction measures are taken. Red Cross Red Crescent volunteers are at the heart of the Movement's endeavours to strengthen urban communities.

The community we celebrated World Red Cross day  in South Jakarta are doing something about the urban challenges. One Red Cross volunteer had given up her home for the weekend and converted it  into a blood donor centre where over a hundred people gave blood for local hospitals, where there is always a shortage. A village drama team enacted a drama about climate change and the need to protect the environment. Hundreds of school children and their parents watched and learned.

I was proud that my organisation, the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies in Indonesia,  continues to support PMI to address these urban challenges, for instance undertaking integrated community based risk reduction (ICBRR) in four large villages in West and East Jakarta, as well as supporting the PMI on its Human Pandemic Preparedness (H2P) programme.

We are also supporting the PMI in the scaling up their blood programme nation-wide. The lack of safe blood is a problem in many densely populated areas around the world

So my walk through Bangkok this morning exposed to me the good and bad of incrreasing urbanisation. We must unite and work to improve the quality of life in Asia's mega-cities, or we will see increasing poverty, marginalization of certain sectors, and more violence.


Bangkok Temples said...

Wish I'd seen Bangkok in 75 like you - from all I heard, read and saw in pictures, a lot has changed.
Like how you captured your morning walk, makes me want to go on one of these in that are again too.

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Dear Bangkok Temples

It was different back in 1975. The war in Vietnam had just finished and there were a lot of American military still in Thailand. It may have changed on the outside, but the people are still as warm and courteous as ever. Thanks for your comments. Bob

joe l said...

Nice one Bob. Funny how Bangers bring out the purple prose. I surprised myself by describing its "plangeant pungency" :)
That was my walk to work too, when I worked there, an amazing voyage every morning. Cycling was a good option, as the rushing air kept the sweat down. 6am massages eh? Whatever next? tsk tsk

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Hi Joe

Just arrived home from Bangers ! Yeh there is something about that city that brings out the poetic side of writers, or pretenders to the quill.

6 a.m. offers of massages can be fended off as B.O.D does on the rugby field.

cheers. Bob

Unknown said...


I wish there were people cooking breakfasts on bbq's in good old Kilbirnie, New Zealand

Cities like Bangkok amaze me, you wonder what all the people do, and how they survive. I guess when it comes down to it we all just do what we do to get by.

Take care aye and continue those good works!


Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Kia Ora Jamie !

Yes, NZ would be the richer for street side food vendors. Hopefully the unemployment rate would drop and people would eat healthier foods.

Kia kaha. Bob

Anonymous said...


Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Thanks for your feedback. Bob

Ruahines said...

Kia ora Bob,
I get disturbed to see comments here in New Zealand by people whom have gone over to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore, ect. and "done well", made a lot of money, and now expouse views like the future of New Zealand should be a model of capitalism based on such economies. That there should be no government assistance, that business concerns should be placed above all else, that those whom do not work do not vote, and cry out that laws such as the one passed in Arizona in regards to immigrants do not go far enough. I guess National is really letting the flatulence escape from all corners here in the Land of the Long White Cloud. Stay healthy safe and well Bob. Kia kaha.

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Kia Ora Robb

I am back in Jakarta now safe and sound.

A number of our leaders in Kiwiland have short memories about the foundations of 'safety net social welfare' put in place by the 1935 Labour Government. Fine, let the free market forces work positively for the good of the country but we need a safety net, and we need Governments that care about our environment. Our off-Key leader at the moment is steering to far to the right, and we run the risk of a social and environmental melt-down.

Bring back Sir Walter Nash !

How are the hips my brother ?


Marja said...

Thaks for taking us on a tour through the city Both my parents and brother loved this city when visiting. Yes growing cities bring a lot of problems , especially for the poor, who live in slums. It takes a lot of work to improve the situation. A future problem will also be the provision of food as the population is growing so fast. The red cross is so necessary

Thanks for introducing me to Rabia of Balkhi. A friend at work introduced me last week to Tagore who's 150th birthday it was and I am totally in love with his poetry
Wish you a great week Arohanui marja

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Kia Ora Marja

I am pleased you like Pabia. She was a wonderful woman who stood up to family oppression against females.

Yes, Tagoe is one of my favourites and his book of poems Gitanjali, won him the Nobel Prize, and is one of my favourites.

You have a good week too, Marja. Bob

Donald said...

Ahh... Bob you have so captured the richness of the little I know of huge Asian cities. I can almost taste the smell back here in the late autumn airs of southern NZ.

Such places have immense energy, yet can both shock and delight.

Keep up the good work and enlightening posts. Sadly the portrayal of this city on current NZ TV shows only the negative. A trend all too prevalent in our society. Whereas your post gives a more balanced view of things. More than ever we need to see the bigger picture on all matters.



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