Showing posts with label Ed Cotter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ed Cotter. Show all posts

Sunday, 5 November 2017

NORMAN HARDIE - 28/12/1924 - 30/10/2017 - NEW ZEALAND MOUNTAINEER & ENGINEER

NORMAN HARDIE - OBITUARY by Colin Monteath
I first met Christchurch mountaineer Norman Hardie in May 1983 outside my favourite old bookshop in New Regent Street. At the time I was Field Operations Officer for the New Zealand Antarctic Research Programme so I introduced myself and asked Norman if he fancied a 5-month stint as leader of Scott Base. I knew that Norman had been to Antarctica before as a survival instructor in the early 1960s and, in 1967, as a surveyor with Sir Edmund Hillary’s New Zealand expedition that went on to make the first ascent of the elegant Mt Herschel in North Victoria Land.
I felt sure that Norman's mana as an internationally-recognised mountaineer and his reputation as a skilled, no-nonsense civil engineer would be the perfect skill-set to take charge of not only the Scott Base staff but to solve the complex logistic puzzle that is New Zealand's summer science programme. Sure enough, a few weeks later, Norman sat beside me to start his indoctrination into how some 300 people would meld together into a cohesive team. A friendship started here at my desk and carried on during that summer at Scott Base has endured and deepened over the years.
Norman David Hardie was born in Timaru on 28th December 1924, one of three sons and five daughters of George and Mabel Hardie. He was educated at Timaru Boys’ High School then at The University of Otago and The University of Canterbury, graduating with BE in Civil Engineering. His first job, in 1948, was with the Ministry of works at Lake Pukaki. In 1950 he moved to the Wellington Hydro office. By 1951 Norman was in London and for the next four years he worked for a consulting engineering company on structural and water scheme designs. While there, in 1951, Norman married University of Canterbury friend Enid Hurst, daughter of Colonel H.C Hurst.
After his first expedition to Nepal in 1954 Norman returned to Christchurch to work for EGS Powell as a consulting engineer. From 1958 to1963 Norman was a partner in Stock & Hardie consulting engineers, then Hardie & Anderson, structural engineering consultants (1963-83). Norman was a site engineer for Baigent’s timber mill (1984-85) before retiring to work as a private consultant working from homes in Halswell and Cashmere.
Norman was the Chairman of the Canterbury Branch of the Institution of Engineers (1969-71) and a Director of Farrier Waimak Ltd., (1971-84) Norman was made a Distinguished Fellow of the Institution of Professional Engineers.
Norman Hardie ( centre)...with Geoff Harrow ( left) & Bill Beaven...members of the 1954 NZAC 'East of Everest' Himalayan expedition.
Norman’s mountain life started during the late 1930s as a government deer culler mainly in the Canterbury high country, work he continued during his years at university. On one hunting venture, after cycling from Timaru to Bealey, he shot four deer in the Waimakariri river basin. Tired out, he broke into Cora Lyn farmhouse to sleep the night, leaving a note about his actions upon leaving in the morning. Twenty four years later, he and Enid bought that house, owning it for 22 happy years.
During his final university years Norman’s interest in hunting led him to join the Canterbury University Tramping Club and this soon fostered a desire to take up mountaineering. Climbs at the head of the Rakaia followed in 1946, as did ventures into the Landsborough river catchment, a region that held a life-long fascination where he completed numerous new routes on peaks such as Mts Dechen, Strachan, Fettes and Elliot. During Norman’s time at university he fostered enduring friendships with climbers Jim McFarlane, Bill Beaven, Bill Packard and Earle Riddiford who all went on to join the New Zealand Alpine Club. As fresh graduates bound for employment at the end of the 1947 summer, Bill Beaven, Earle, Jim and Norman completed the first ascent of the still-rarely climbed South ridge of Sefton, approaching it from Fyfe Pass, the Landsborough and Harper’s Rock.
Based at Pukaki in 1948 as an engineer Norman was awakened one night by Bill Beaven to tell him he was needed to help rescue Ruth Adams who lay badly injured close to the summit of La Perouse. Adams had fallen during a climb with Ed Hillary and guides Mick Sullivan and Harry Ayres. Ruth's subsequent lower down the West Ridge of La Perouse and epic stretcher-carry down the Cook River to Fox has entered New Zealand mountain folklore, with Norman’s role being written up in his autobiography On my Own Two Feet (2006). Norman told me in recent years that he felt the rescue became a pivotal point in New Zealand mountaineering whereby amateur climbers like Ed Hillary who had always climbed with a guide saw what other amateur climbers were capable of; in turn, the amateurs learning much from the professionals. The bushmen who cut the track up the Cook river taught much also. Norman and his mates realised that the time was right for them to tackle bigger objectives, with luck overseas. As one, their dreams turned to climbing in the Himalaya.
Photo left: Ed Cotter and Norm Hardie. These two great NZ mountaineers died a few weeks apart,

Engineering work and marriage in London followed, interspersed with climbs in the European Alps. While in England he befriended famous English climbers Eric Shipton, Bill Tilman, Charles Evans and John Hunt. Lacking Himalayan expedition experience, his application to join John Hunt’s 1953 Everest team was turned down. However, as a mountaineer based in London, he was asked by John Hunt to volunteer his time and expertise to co-facilitate the ground work for the 1953 Everest expedition that was sponsored by the Royal Geographical Society.
Norman finally got his break to climb in the Nepal Himalaya by sailing out to Bombay to join the 1954 New Zealand Alpine Club Barun valley expedition led by Ed Hillary. Some 20 new climbs were completed in what is now the Makalu-Barun National Park, including the 7000 metre plum Baruntse. I always envied Norman’s first ascent of Pethangtse, an elegant outlier of Lhotse that straddles the Nepal-Tibet border. He used the summit as a survey station as part of his expedition mapping programme. Charles Evans was invited on this highly mobile Kiwi trip, in part as repayment for New Zealanders being invited on British expeditions starting with Dan Bryant in 1935.
Norman’s friendship with Charles Evans deepened and this led to him being asked to be deputy leader of the 1955 British expedition to Kangchenjunga, the world’s third highest mountain. Norman helped to refine the oxygen equipment for this venture that was ostensibly a reconnaissance though it quickly turned into a full-blown assault on the summit. Joe Brown and George Band reached the summit first with Norman and Tony Streather summiting the following day; all four climbers avoided treading on the actual summit in deference to local beliefs. I always liked Norman’s tale from base camp of Evans asking him to take two of the climbers who eventually summited aside to teach them how to use crampons.
Norm Hardie (left) talking to Bob McKerrow at the the talk Norm gave to celebrate the 60th anniversary of his ascent of Kanchenjunga.
After the Kangchenjunga climb Norman and some Sherpas set out to walk all the way to the Khumbu where he met Enid. This journey forms the basis of Norman’s first book In Highest Nepal (1957) that was later translated into German and Japanese. Following Norman’s participation in Ed Hillary’s 1960-61 Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering (Silver hut) Expedition that wintered under Ama Dablam, the Khumbu became central to Norman’s life for several decades. In 1963 he developed and constructed an improved water supply from a spring above Khumjung village. He played a key role in the functioning of the Himalayan Trust, remaining on its board from 1966-88. During this period Norman and Enid made 14 visits to Nepal for school building, national park work and re-afforestation programmes. In 1986, sponsored by the New Zealand Government, Norman went to the Khumbu to report on the state of their forests and to make recommendations for their future care, which eventuated in the establishment of the Sagarmatha National Park.
Norman served for 21 years on various New Zealand Alpine Club committees and was NZAC President from 1973-75. He also served on the Arthur’s Pass National Park Board from 1967-79 and on the Craigieburn Forest Park Committee 1980-87, being Chairman for two years. He was a member of the Christchurch Civic Trust Board 1988-92 and The College House Board 1971-97. In 1992, Norman was awarded the Queen’s Service Order for services to mountaineering and conservation. He was an Honorary Life Member of The Alpine Club (UK) and The Himalayan Club and Life Member of the New Zealand Antarctic Society and the New Zealand Alpine Club.
Norman retained a deep interest in engineering and mountaineering throughout his life, attending and giving lectures and offering advice to younger climbers who found their way to his door. He helped innumerable authors get Nepalese facts straight as well as offering editorial advice to draft manuscripts and journal articles. Many of New Zealand’s top climbers owe a debt of gratitude to Norman’s mentoring and instruction during their formative years.
While living in a semi-rural property in Halswell, Norman and his ‘ Last of the summer wine’ enthusiasts bottled their own wine. It’s time to raise a glass to Norman Hardie, one of New Zealand’s outstanding mountaineers.

Memorial Service - College House - University Of Canterbury -100 Waimari Road - Friday 10th November....2pm Ice Axe Avenue led by Andrew and David Turton. All are invited to join in.
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Norman David Hardie: Born; 28 December 1924 - Died 30 October 2017
Norman is survived by his wife Enid and daughters Sarah Jane Hardie and Ruth Wells and grandchildren Henry, Tamar and Roslyn Wells and David Turton.
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Saturday, 21 October 2017

Ed Cotter has passed away.


I received the sad news today that Ed Cotter passed away. Ed will be remembered by many of us as an exceptionally good climber, the Father of Adventure Tourism, and a warm and supportive friend with an infectious sense of humour. 

I remember climbing Mt. McFettrick with him in 1991, being his boss at Franz in 1991 and a friend ever since. My daughters loved him and often talk of Ed at Anita Mckerrow's 21st, sleeping in our woodshed at Hokitika. You were an amazing man Ed. My condolences to the Cotter family.                      
                                                All photographs taken by Bob McKerrow


  R to L: Ed Cotter, John Nankervis, Chris Bonnington, Dave Bamford, Mike Browne and Colin Moneath.



                                   Ed Cotter left with Franz Josef mountain guide, Peter McCormack 1991.


                                                   Ed Cotter cutting steps of the Fox Glacier.


    Author Lyn McKinnon, Ed Cotter and Naila McKerrow ay my house. Lyn wrote a book on Ed Cotter.





                             Ed Cotter with his old climbing partner, George Low of Everest fame.


 Ed Cotter centre, Mike Browne left with Chris Jillet right. On a climb of Mount McFettrick.

                           Chris Bonnington left and Ed Cotter right at Chancellor Hit, Fox Glacier.

Saturday, 23 March 2013

Farewell to Everest conquering climber George Lowe

George Lowe is dead. I feel a sense of grief and loss for it is the parting of a team of our greatest NZ mountain sons.. A short time ago I posted on facebook thus: 

The super-great New Zealand mountaineer George Lowe died yesterday. Of 1953 Everest fame, George started his adventures in the Ruahines and then made his mark in the Southern Alps with Sir Edmund Hillary, Ed Cotter and Earl Riddiford. His last years were hard ones for friends and family as he had Alzheimers so his passing over the 'divide' is a relief. Ed Cotter visited George and his wife regularly in England and was a faithful rope partner til the end. A photo of George Lowe right, and Ed Cotter last year in the UK. 

For a young New Zealand boy brought up on the heroics of Hillary, Lowe, Cotter and Riddiford on the first ascent of the Maximilian ridge of Mount Elie de Beaumont, and later Lowe and Hillary on a successful first ascent of Mount Everest, it is the passing of a 'great.'

For years my family has been close to George Lowe's climbing partner, Ed Cotter. Ed has been George's very close friend and visited England regularly to support George and his wife, as George deteriorated with Alzheimer disease.   Here is a photo of George (right)  and Ed Cotter.



Here is what his local newspaper the 'Hawkes Bay Today' recorded.

 Hastings Boys' High School is likely to permanently commemorate possibly its most famous pupil who has died in England - Everest-conquering expedition climber George Lowe.

School principal Robert Sturch, who last night conceded he'd never heard of George Lowe until he arrived at the school in 2002 and was introduced to the former head prefect returning as guest speaker for its centennial, said the death was marked with a minute's silence at an assembly yesterday.


Sir Edmund Hillary and Mr George Lowe , both members of the successful Everest Expedition , studying a chart of the Antarctic during their London talks .
Sir Edmund Hillary and Mr George Lowe , both members of the successful Everest Expedition , studying a chart of the Antarctic during their London talks .


But "without a doubt" there would be something to mark the life of a man for whom he said there could be few better examples of "courage and commitment".

As the school of 771 boys was told of the death there was a mixture of acclaim and disbelief - the latter mainly from younger students previously unaware of the school's links to the 1953 conquering of Mt Everest, and the role of a former pupil often referred to as the "forgotten" man of the expedition.

He was the man to whom Sir Edmund Hillary about 11.30am on May 29, 1953, announced the conquering of Mt Everest with one of the most famous lines of the 20th century: "Well, we knocked the bastard off."



George Lowe (left) and Edmund Hillary relax at camp near the Lhotse Face, during their 1953 Everest Expedition
George Lowe (left) and Edmund Hillary relax at camp near the Lhotse Face, during their 1953 Everest ExpeditionRoyal Geographical society


On behalf of the school, Mr Sturch has passed on condolences to bereaved family members in England where Mr Lowe died in a nursing home, aged 89.

He was born Wallace George Lowe in Hastings on January 15, 1924, one of eight children. His parents were Archie and Teenie Lowe, who operated an orchard off Maraekakaho Rd, Stortford Lodge. Lowe St is named after Archie Lowe, who was a Hastings Borough Council member from 1938-41.

George went to Hastings West School, now known as Raureka, and from 1938-43 was at the then-Hastings High School, where he played lock in the first XV rugby team. An arm injury at the age of nine proved little impediment as he grew up, delivering papers and milk on his bike, and he developed an interest in tramping.

After two years at Wellington Teachers' Training College he returned to Hastings where he taught at Parkvale School, from where he would leave for the Everest expedition - returning to a parade in Heretaunga St.
Moving to England, he made a point of returning to Hawke's Bay for some time at least once a year, often visiting his old school, and on one visit, in 2004, was accorded Freedom of the City in an investiture by Mayor Lawrence Yule.

Until his death he was the last surviving climber from the team that helped establish the final camp 300m below the Everest summit the day before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the peak.

Sir Ed's son, Peter, yesterday remembered Mr Lowe as a talented man who shared his father's passions for climbing and helping others.

Mr Lowe had contributed to the mountaineering community in New Zealand and overseas, including the education of people living near Mt Everest in the Himalayas. Those people were "were real priorities for George", he told Radio New Zealand.

"That's perhaps one of the really significant thing about today losing George. It just is another stamp of how important this New Zealand connection with Mt Everest is," he said.

He referred to the Mt Everest climbs involving his father and Mr Lowe and their later work building the schools and hospitals. "It's been a long New Zealand involvement with the highest mountain on the planet."

Monday, 18 October 2010

Ranikhet, A jewel in the Himalayan crown

I plan to spend some days in the Western Himalayas in mid November, so I thought I would do a few postings of my favourite spots there. First is Ranikhet, my jewel in the crown.

Ranikhet is one on my favourite destination in the Indian Himalaya which stands at 1824 m above sea level. Ranikhet is located in the northern Indian state of Uttaranchal. in the Kumaon Hills, From here you get some of the best views of the Western Himalaya. 

My good friend from Christchurch, Ed Cotter, agreed with me that Ranikhet was one of his favourites too, and he first visited there in !951 with Sir Edmund Hillary

The 1951 New Zealand Garhwhal Expedition sailed to Colombo and travelled by train through India and on the way to Garhwal, Hillary wrote to Eric Shipton asking if he might join the Everest Reconnaissance Expedition of 1951.

When the four-man party had done with their peak they arrived in Ranikhet to be greeted by a telegram inviting two of them to join Shipton's party. Hillary, as the fittest and best-acclimatised of the four, was obvious first choice, and set out immediately for Nepal. It was the start of a lifelong love affair. With Shipton, too, there was an immediate rapport: "I felt a sense of relief at his unshaven face and scruffy clothes.".


George Lowe and Ed Cotter, members of the first New Zealand expedition to the Himalayas, study photos from the journey, which includes photos of Ranikhet. Photo / Simon Baker

The views from Ranikhet and small villages nearby are superb. You can see the Western Himalaya stunning and the view of the Nanda Devi is superb . There are a number of attractions in Ranikhet that  arew orth visiting such as the Chaubatia Gardens which  is large orchard that is spread over an area of 265 acres. Ranikhet is popular for two of its temples. Jhoola Devi Ka Mandir was constructed some 400 years ago in honor of the local Goddess, who protected the people from man-eating tigers. The other important temple is Kali Devi ka Mandir, which has a large number of bells. The site of the temple is believed to be 5000 years old.

The other places that one can visit include Bhaludham, which is an artificial lake. Upat Kalika some four kilometres from Ranikhet on the main road to Almora is an ideal spot to admire snow capped Himalayan peaks.

In 1975 when I lived in Nepal and again from 2000 to 2006 when I lived in India, I visited the many places in view of the might Nanda Devi. Straddling the regions of Garhwal and Kumaon, close to the Tibetan border, Nanda Devi (7816 m), is the geographical and spiritual high point of India. Surrounding the peak is an incredible expanse of mighty 6000 and 7000 metre peaks. Nanda Devis's inner sanctuary is currently off limits to climbers and trekkers. However at one time it was the coveted destination of several early 20th century expeditions all of which failed to reach the sancturay until Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman reached it via the Rishi Ganga gorge in 1932. Tilman eventually climbed the main peak for the first time in 1936.

The three photos below show views of Ranikhet, starting with a painting by an unknown British artist


Nanda Devi Base Camp below




Kumaon Himalaya




The valley of flowers


Pindari Glacier

Panchu glacier near Nanda Devi Base camp