Friday 31 December 2010

The best book I read in 2010 !


Ella Maillart - The best travel writer of the 20th century ?

When I was in Delhi in mid November this year, I was thrilled to find a reprint of Ella Maillart's classic,  Turkistan Solo, in Bahrisons bookshop. Compared to modern writers of Central Asia such as Colin Thubron's and his book The Lost Heart of Asia which I found so depressing, Maillart's story is travel writing at its brilliant best. Her eye for detail, minute description of faces, dress, food, customs and landscape, is sheer joy to read. She doesn't dwell on the dirt, the lice, but on the human hearts of people

In this book her journey took place in 1932, long before travelling in Central Asia became fashionable, Ella Maillart travelled to Russian Turkestan, bordered by China, Tibet, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. Her dream was to see the mountains that lay on the fringes of China and the Takla Makan desert. She travelled like a nomad - slowly, by camel and on foot. Setting out from Moscow, she crossed Kyrgyzstan as far as the Tien Shan range (the Celestial Mountains). She climbed the 5,000 metre-high Sari Tor on makeshift skis, explored the legendary cities of Tashkent, Samarkand, Khiva and Bukhara, travelled down the Amu Daria river and crossed, solo, the freezing and hostile wastes of the Kizil Kum, the Desert of Red Sands. Her companions are drawn from both past and present - Mongolian princesses rub shoulders with Trotskyist exiles, whilst pilgrims and dervishes ride alongside emperors and kings. Even today, a trip like this would be considered daring. That Ella Maillart did it, largely alone almost 70 years ago, makes her journey all the more remarkable.

I was fortunate when I lived in Central Asia from 1993-99, to repeat many of her routes in what was then called Turkestan: today's Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Tajikistan. I was fascinated to read that she had crossed Ak Bel Pass, and reached the source of the Syr Darya river


Naila and I spent time  with a Kyrgyz family near Tash Rabat, a place Elia Maillart passed through on her journey in 1932. I had that strange feeling they were closely related. This was in 1998. Photo Bob McKerrow

But it was not only her travels in modern day Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan that fascinated me, but her journey through Uzbekistan to Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. It was fascinating to compare my photos with hers and see so many similarities.


Turkestan Solo  is the account of an expedition from the Tien Shan to the Kizil Kum where she spent time with the Kirghiz and Kazakh tribesmen. Talgar peak in the Tienshan range in Kazakhstan: Photo: Bob McKerrow

The quote from Turkestan Solo I love is this one:

 I smile when I think of the vegetarian credo. The Kirghiz feed exclusively on meat and milk.Yet they live long, and like the Esquimaux, are able to put up an astonishing resistance to cold, privation and the fatique of the long treks. To eat as much as possible when one has the chance, so that the unexpected may find one with every reserve stored full, that is the principle on which the camel works.  In unconscious obedience to this rule, I stuff myself daily and put on flesh visibly. I am the terror of Mila who is chatge of our victuals. Either her eyes of her voice  remind me daily : " It's frightful. Ella eats more than the men!"

When she died in early April 1997, Sarah Anderson pays tribute to her.

"To dawdle is my usual fashion, as if I had the whole of eternity before me." This sums up Ella Maillart's approach to travel; she liked travelling slowly, absorbing the culture, and she understood the importance of finding the similarities rather than the differences between people. It was this inquisitiveness which makes her part of the tradition of great women travellers; she had an interest in understanding the how and why of other people's lives, rather more than in straight exploration.





Her photos are brilliant such as this one taken of a woman picking cotton in Uzbekistan in 1932.




Ella Maillart, known as Kini, was born in Geneva in 1903; she was a sickly child until, aged ten, she and her family started to spend the summer months on Lake Geneva. She was entranced by the lake, where she learned to sail, and in 1924 she represented Switzerland as the only woman in single-handed yachting at the Paris Olympics. She was a natural athlete and wrote that "with sailing, hockey, and skiing as main amusements I could bear the boredom of school." Her skiing became so accomplished that between 1931-34 she was a member of the Swiss National Ski Team. A photograph in her autobiography Cruises and Caravans (1942) shows her as the only woman in the Swiss ladies' ski team wearing a skirt.


At 17 she gave up school to study privately, to try to discover what career was calling her. She realised that earning her own living was her only route to independence but envied those who knew what they wanted to do, not having any idea herself. Her private studies failed, but undaunted she embarked on a six-month voyage with another woman along the south coast of France. On her return, her father, a furrier, told her that, as business was bad, she must think further about a career. She decided that the answer to her future lay in turning her life into a continual holiday.

She did various jobs in England and Berlin, where she lived mostly on porridge, and finally got a visa to Russia in 1930, where she studied film in Moscow and learnt to speak fluent Russian. She soon tired of the sedentary life and set off for the Caucasus. An article she wrote on her Caucasus trip was rejected; this did not surprise her as she said "I never nursed the illusion that I could write." She later saw writing as a tool which enabled her to travel, insisting that "I write with my foot.



An Uzbek merchant and his caravan.

She was later persuaded to expand her rejected article, which was published as Parmi La Jeunesse Russe (1932). Turkestan Solo (1934) was the account of an expedition from the Tien Shan to the Kizil Kum where she spent time with the Kirghiz and Kazakh tribesmen. In 1935 she was sent as a special correspondent by the French newspaper Petit Parisien to Manchuria. It was there that she re-encountered Peter Fleming (whom she had previously interviewed in London), who was in China for the Times, and she suggested that they embark together on a 3,500-mile trip west from Peking through the Taklamakan desert and Sin-kiang (at that time closed to foreigners) to Kashmir: a journey which took seven months. In the foreword to his book of the journey News From Tartary (1936) Fleming wrote "I can hardly doubt that you will find her, as I did, a gallant traveller and a good companion."


This belies the inevitable difficulties that two strong-minded people had with their very different approaches to travel. Fleming (photo left) was impatient to get back to England while Ella Maillart, whose book about the trip, Forbidden Journey, was published in 1937, wanted to linger. She was a traveller rather than an explorer, not interested in map-making, but rather in understanding the people among whom she found herself. "I wanted to forget that we had inevitably to return home. I even lost the desire to return, and would have liked the journey to last for the rest of my life."

The Cruel Way (1947) recounts a journey from Geneva to India via Persia and Afghanistan made in 1939 with a friend who was recovering from drug addiction. She spent much of the war in India visiting ashrams and gurus, way ahead of her time, and stayed for some time with Ramana Maharshi in southern India. He cured her of some of her restlessness and she came to the realisation that "the world with its countless aspects cannot give us the fundamental answer: only God can. And God can be met nowhere but in ourselves . . ."

Her travels had always been a search rather than an escape, but after her time in India she achieved a greater serenity. I remember her coming into the Travel Bookshop in London as an old lady, sitting peacefully on the sofa but still exuding an air of curiosity. It was that, combined with a prodigious energy that made her into such a good traveller and an inspiration to women travellers of today. Her aim was "to push the nose of my sailing boat into every creek and to point my skis down every possible gully of the mountain."

In 1949 Maillart became one of the first travellers to the newly opened Nepal and wrote about the people, who reminded her of her native Swiss, in Land of the Sherpas (1955). That was her last travel book but she continued to write occasionally and to lecture and accompany tours abroad.


She retired to a chalet in Chandolin, one of the highest villages in the Swiss Alps, but went on taking tours to far-off places well into her eighties. In her old age she managed to achieve one of her ambitions by going to the South Pacific and aged 83, she went to Tibet on her last major expedition. Three years ago she went to Goa and spent her remaining years reading about India and Indian religions.


Ella Maillart, traveller and writer: born Geneva, Switzerland 20 February 1903; died Chandolin, Switzerland 27 March 1997. For me, she is the greatest travel writer of the 20th Century

My photograph of a woman sitting outside the Ulig Beg Madrasah in Registan square could easily have been taken by her, except for the colour. Photo: Bob McKerrow

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Dear Bob,
Excellent Article...very inspiring. We all are travellers after all. I am also on my journey. I have joined GRC and would be based in Vavuniya- my karma bhumi (work-duty- land). Wish you a happy new year.

Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer said...

Thanks Nikhil. Yes we are all travellers on a journey. I am delighted you will be based in Vavuniya. Dr. Mahesh and Nimal de Silva are fine people to work with. Happy New Year, Bob

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My name is Mrs Sharon Sim. I live in Singapore and i am a happy woman today? and i told my self that any lender that rescue my family from our poor situation, i will refer any person that is looking for loan to him, he gave me happiness to me and my family, i was in need of a loan of S$250,000.00 to start my life all over as i am a single mother with 3 kids I met this honest and GOD fearing man loan lender that help me with a loan of S$250,000.00 SG. Dollar, he is a GOD fearing man, if you are in need of loan and you will pay back the loan please contact him tell him that is Mrs Sharon, that refer you to him. contact Dr Purva Pius,via email:(urgentloan22@gmail.com) Thank you.

BORROWERS APPLICATION DETAILS


1. Name Of Applicant in Full:……..
2. Telephone Numbers:……….
3. Address and Location:…….
4. Amount in request………..
5. Repayment Period:………..
6. Purpose Of Loan………….
7. country…………………
8. phone…………………..
9. occupation………………
10.age/sex…………………
11.Monthly Income…………..
12.Email……………..

Regards.
Managements
Email Kindly Contact: (urgentloan22@gmail.com)

Unknown said...

Dear Customers,

We invite you all to our new business and project funding program, We are currently funding for Business start up, Business developments, Project funding and Working capital etc.

This Funding program allows a client to enjoy 2% low interest rate and payback period of 1 to 35 years. Application available
apply via email: infoservice787@gmail.com

MR JAME said...

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mrwilliam751@gmail.com
LOAN SEEKERS APPLICATION FORM
******************************
1) Full Name:
2) Gender:
3) Loan Amount Needed:
4) Loan Duration:
5) Country:
6) Home Address:
7) Mobile Number:
8) Fax Number:
9) Occupation:
10) Monthly Income:
11) Salary Date:
12) Purpose of loan:
13) Where did you get our loan advertisement:

MR JAME said...

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Dr Purva Pius said...

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Dr Purva Pius said...

My Brothers and Sister all over the world, I am Mrs Boo Wheat from Canada ; i was in need of loan some month ago. i needed a loan to open my restaurant and bar, when one of my long time business partner introduce me to this good and trustful loan lender DR PURVA PIUS that help me out with a loan, and is interest rate is very low , thank God today. I am now a successful business woman, and I became useful. In the life of others, I now hold a restaurant and bar. And about 30 workers, thank GOD for my life I am leaving well today a happy father with three kids, thanks to you DR PURVA PIUS Now I can take care of my lovely family, i can now pay my bill. I am now the bread winner of my family. If you are look for a trustful and reliable loan leader. You can Email him via,mail (urgentloan22@gmail.com) Please tell him Mrs Boo Wheat from Canada introduce you to him. THANKS

Unknown said...

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Full name: ..........
Telephone number:.......
Monthly income: .............
Country ...............................
Loan Purpose ...........
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Management.
Contact the credit Speedy now !!!

osma said...

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LOAN APPLICATION INFORMATION FORM
First name......
Middle name.....
2) Gender:.........
3) Loan Amount Needed:.........
4) Loan Duration:.........
5) Country:.........
6) Home Address:.........
7) Mobile Number:.........
8) Email address..........
9) Monthly Income:.....................
10) Occupation:...........................
11)Which site did you here about us.....................
Thanks and Best Regards.
Derek Email osmanloanserves@gmail.com



Hello Everybody,
My name is Ahmad Asnul Brunei, I contacted Mr Osman Loan Firm for a business loan amount of $250,000, Then i was told about the step of approving my requested loan amount, after taking the risk again because i was so much desperate of setting up a business to my greatest surprise, the loan amount was credited to my bank account within 24 banking hours without any stress of getting my loan. I was surprise because i was first fall a victim of scam! If you are interested of securing any loan amount & you are located in any country, I'll advise you can contact Mr Osman Loan Firm via email osmanloanserves@gmail.com

LOAN APPLICATION INFORMATION FORM
First name......
Middle name.....
2) Gender:.........
3) Loan Amount Needed:.........
4) Loan Duration:.........
5) Country:.........
6) Home Address:.........
7) Mobile Number:.........
8) Email address..........
9) Monthly Income:.....................
10) Occupation:...........................
11)Which site did you here about us.....................
Thanks and Best Regards.
Derek Email osmanloanserves@gmail.com

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All these plans and more,contact us now.

contact us via email: for the loan company who assisted me here is their contact details (ryanloaninvestment001@outlook.com)


Regards
Management

Ahmed Kumar said...


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Unknown said...

Hello Everybody,
My name is Mrs Sharon Sim. I live in Singapore and i am a happy woman today? and i told my self that any lender that rescue my family from our poor situation, i will refer any person that is looking for loan to him, he gave me happiness to me and my family, i was in need of a loan of S$250,000.00 to start my life all over as i am a single mother with 3 kids I met this honest and GOD fearing man loan lender that help me with a loan of S$250,000.00 SG. Dollar, he is a GOD fearing man, if you are in need of loan and you will pay back the loan please contact him tell him that is Mrs Sharon, that refer you to him. contact Dr Purva Pius,via email:(urgentloan22@gmail.com) Thank you.

BORROWERS APPLICATION DETAILS


1. Name Of Applicant in Full:……..
2. Telephone Numbers:……….
3. Address and Location:…….
4. Amount in request………..
5. Repayment Period:………..
6. Purpose Of Loan………….
7. country…………………
8. phone…………………..
9. occupation………………
10.age/sex…………………
11.Monthly Income…………..
12.Email……………..

Regards.
Managements
Email Kindly Contact: (urgentloan22@gmail.com)

Unknown said...


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Contact us for a loan via email solutionlogicmoney@gmail.com
Name
Amount
Duration
Country
State
Sex
Mobile#

Best Regards
Mr Ahmed Ibrahim
+918860675979
solutionlogicmoney@gmail.com
LOGIC MONEY FINANCIAL SOLUTION COMPANY.

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BORROWERS LOAN APPLICATION FORM
***************************** ************
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2) Gender:........
3) Loan Amount Needed
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6) Home Address:..
7) Mobile Number:.....
8) Fax Number:......
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11) Salary Date:....
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Anonymous said...

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Mark Roland said...

Hello Everyone,Mr Mark Roland Paco Loan Company

Welcome to the future! Financing made easy with Mark Roland Loan Investment Inc.

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* Debt Consolidation Loan
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* Students Loan and so many others.

For more info;
Phone Number:+1 (419) 718-1467
For more details contact us at: pacoloancompany@gmail.com

With Mr Mark Roland Loan Investment Inc. you can say goodbye to all your financial crisis and difficulties as we are certified, trustworthy, reliable, efficient, fast and dynamic

Remain Blessed,
Mr Mark Roland.

Unknown said...

LAPO MICRO FINANCE is a Government approved financial institution, we give out loans to both individuals and organizations worldwide, at an interest rate of 2% per annual. Kindly get back to us for further details if interested of loan through Email: lapomicrofinance@hotmail.com

Raymond Doison said...

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FOR LEASING OF BG/SBLC
MINIMUM FACE VALUE OF BG/SBLC = EUR/USD 1M
LEASING FEE = 4%+1%

FOR PURCHASE OF FRESH CUT BG/SBLC
PRICE = 32%+1%
MINIMUM FACE VALUE OF BG/SBLC = EUR/USD 1M

Intermediaries/Consultants/Brokers are welcome to bring their clients and are 100% protected. In complete confidence, we will work together for the benefits of all parties involved.

Contact : Mr. Raymond Doison
Contact Email: crusaderbroker.bgassurance@gmail.com
skype:crusaderbroker.bgassurance@gmail.com

Anonymous said...

Hello Everybody,
My name is Mrs Sharon Sim. I live in Singapore and i am a happy woman today? and i told my self that any lender that rescue my family from our poor situation, i will refer any person that is looking for loan to him, he gave me happiness to me and my family, i was in need of a loan of $250,000.00 to start my life all over as i am a single mother with 3 kids I met this honest and GOD fearing man loan lender that help me with a loan of $250,000.00 SG. Dollar, he is a GOD fearing man, if you are in need of loan and you will pay back the loan please contact him tell him that is Mrs Sharon, that refer you to him. contact Dr Purva Pius,via email:(urgentloan22@gmail.com) Thank you.

Unknown said...

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Email: progresiveloan@yahoo.com
Call/WhatsApp: +16626183756 thanks


Urgent Loan said...

Hello Everybody,
My name is Mrs Sharon Sim. I live in Singapore and i am a happy woman today? and i told my self that any lender that rescue my family from our poor situation, i will refer any person that is looking for loan to him, he gave me happiness to me and my family, i was in need of a loan of $250,000.00 to start my life all over as i am a single mother with 3 kids I met this honest and GOD fearing man loan lender that help me with a loan of $250,000.00 SG. Dollar, he is a GOD fearing man, if you are in need of loan and you will pay back the loan please contact him tell him that is Mrs Sharon, that refer you to him. contact Dr Purva Pius,via email:(urgentloan22@gmail.com) Thank you.

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===========================
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=================
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Unknown said...

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Abdul Muqse said...

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Thanks and look forward to your prompt reply. 
Regards, 
Muqse

Abdul Muqse said...

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Regards,
Muqse

Unknown said...

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Unknown said...

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Name : Warren Gary
E-mail : inquiry.barkerfinancial@gmail.com
Skype id : inquiry.barkerfinancial@gmail.com

Unknown said...

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Unknown said...

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Mavis L Wanczyk said...


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david verney said...

We are specialized in Bank Guarantee {BG}, Standby Letter of Credit {SBLC}, Medium Term Notes {MTN}, Confirmable Bank Draft {CBD} as well as other financial instruments issued from AAA Rated bank such as HSBC Bank Hong Kong, HSBC Bank London, Deutsche Bank AG Frankfurt, Barclays Bank , Standard Chartered Bank and others on lease at the lowest available rates depending on the face value of the instrument needed.

We deliver with time and precision as sethforth in the agreement. Our terms and Conditions are reasonable, below is our instrument description.

The procedure is very simple; the instrument will be reserved on euro clear to be verified by your bank, after verification an arrangement will be made for necessary bank documents and stock testing expenses, the cost of the Bank Guarantee will be paid after the delivery of the MT760.

DESCRIPTION OF INSTRUMENT:
Instrument: Bank Guarantee (BG/SBLC).
Total Face Value: Minimum of 1M Eur/USD (One Million Eur/USD) to Maximum of 5B Euro/USD(Five Billion Eur/USD).
Issuing Bank: HSBC London, Barclays Bank, Deutsche Bank Frankfurt, Hong Kong, Any AA rated Bank in Europe or any Top 25 WEB.
Age: One Year, One Day
Leasing Price: 4% of Face Value plus 1% commission fees to brokers.
Delivery: Bank to Bank SWIFT.
Payment: MT-760.
Hard Copy: Bonded Courier within 7 banking days.

All relevant business information will be provided upon request plus our terms and
procedures.

Contact name: David Verney

Email : davidverney18@gmail.com

skype davidverney18@gmail.com



GENERIC FINANCIAL MANAGEMENT PLC (Registered No 01911493)

THE OLD CHURCH VERULAM ROAD ST. ALBANS HERTFORDSHIRE, AL3 4DH GB


David Verney

davidverney18@gmail.com

Unknown said...

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Email: raphloanfinanzen@gmail.com Or Whatsapp +17372345344 Thanks

Anonymous said...

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Best Regards,
Dr. James Eric.
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Mohammad Ismali said...

kesaksian nyata dan kabar baik !!!

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untuk lebih jelasnya hubungi saya via email: mahammadismali234@gmail.comdan hubungi Dangote Loan Company untuk pinjaman Anda sekarang melalui email Dangotegrouploandepartment@gmail.com

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Anum Faiz said...



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* FOR LEASING OF BG/SBLC MINIMUM FACE VALUE OF BG/SBLC = EUR/USD 1M
LEASING FEE = 4%+2%
* FOR PURCHASE OF FRESH CUT BG/SBLC MINIMUM FACE VALUE OF BG/SBLC = EUR/USD 1M
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Unknown said...

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FOR LEASING OF BG/SBLC
MINIMUM FACE VALUE OF BG/SBLC = EUR/USD 1M
LEASING FEE = 4%+2%
FOR PURCHASE OF FRESH CUT BG/SBLC
MINIMUM FACE VALUE OF BG/SBLC = EUR/USD 1M
PRICE = 32%+2%
Our BG/SBLC Financing can help you get your project funded,
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